Yes you can correct this , you need to access the top and bottom of the flange and entire bend by opening up the ceiling below if its on a upper floor, dig out the floor if its on a slab, or go into the basement for the access needed, Purchase a offset flange adaptor and install it. If the pipe is cast iron or lead remove it to the first bell fitting and then go PVC from there. If it is lead I would change it even if you did not need to move it. Older lead bends can be easily damaged by snaking if the need arise. Remember that the flange should sit on top of the finished floor and not even with it. Many folks end up with leaks when they re-tile around the flange without raising it up. Even if they use the thicker wax rings available to them.
Posts: 1010 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 31 January 2006
However it is available in 4 inch diameter. Ours is 3 inch. The toilet is in 2nd floor by the way. Any suggestion of removing the flange without tearing the ceiling underneath or a big portion of the floor making it unstable.
I assume by the video the pipe is plastic. If the pipe is on the 2nd floor and it is 3" most likely the existing flange is fastend directly to the bend in the pipe. So if you were to cut this out with a internal pipe cutter, (they do have this type of product for 3" pipe) you could not cut down low enough for the offset to work. Your best bet is to cut the ceiling out from below and cut the 90 out completely. Then remove it with the current flange. Then cut just enough flooring out to move the pipe forward one inch. But before you go through all this expense. Did you try the toilet over the flange to see if it will fit to the wall. Sometime the suggested clearance from wall to the center of the flange can be fudged. One inch is not a lot and this may be a lot of hoopala for nothing.
Posts: 1010 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 31 January 2006
Depending on how high the ell sits and what offset flange you purchase is will depend on how high the flange ends up sitting. Be sure not to cut off the nipple on the 90 ell to short. It should stick out of the ell by at least three inches in order for it to be proerly glued in the new fitting. Do not attempt to remove the pipe from the inside of the ell either. It simply cannot be done and if you thought you got it, you will find a leak in the near future. And remember that the flange must sit on top of the floor not below or above it as it must be fastened to the floor to prevent the toilet from moving.
Posts: 1010 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 31 January 2006
Sometimes 11" is enough. Dry fit the toilet using the bolts but no wax. Even try the lid on the tank to see if there is enough room. The best way to change the piping is from below! But if you are willing to try: First, know the location of the floor joist. You can measure inside the pipe to see how far down the elbow is. IF there is enough pipe, you can use an internal pipe cutter to cut it off and use an offset flange. Most likely you may have to use a coupling or a 4" to 3" coupling. Measurements are very important, be sure you know the distance from the floor surface to the end of the pipe that is inside the elbow. Go to your home center or hardware store and lay out different parts for your options, sit on the floor, make sure it fits. Some flanges will fit over pipe, some inside pipe, some inside fittings. Some home centers have better selections, more knowledgeable staff than others. Even though I have a plumbing license, I would rather patch drywall than work internal. Cut a small hole to look through, then bigger for your arm, then bigger to work in, STOP when big enough. Plan for an access door or temporary patch to watch it for a couple days after use. Hope this answered some of your questions. Good luck.
Posts: 9 | Location: Nebraska | Registered: 08 September 2006
