2005 Goodman Heat pump Fan constant runs inside

Hey all..I would appreciate some help here. Got a Goodman Heat pump (indoor and outdoor both goodman) Since I bought this house, I noticed the blower motor/fan motor for the air handler inside never stops blowing. The outdoor unit does cycle on and off. Even if you shut the unit off from the t-stat, it still runs...removing the t-stat (luxPro 5-1-1) it still runs the air handler inside.

My first guess was a stuck relay, however...when I opened the unit (in the attic) there was no old school relays in there, just one small comp. board at the bottom and some other components that might be relays, which were mounted onto the chasis on the unit. When following the trail of wires back from the blower motor, it appears that th motor is being supplied with power right from the internal 40amp breaker, however also...looks like this GE 1/2 hp motor is electronically controlled.. it starts up kinda slow...then kicks in higher speed. There are several black thin what I would think are control wires there running to a second connectiion to the motor below the power.

The model is Goodman HKR-08CA with 7KW 240v B10375-17(heater right?)

I think Ive ruled out a bad or poorly installed t-stat, I was looking for a stuck relay, but now...im a bit lost...someone help???


2. Could this be due to the "dip switches" not being set right? I have no knowledge of these switches but I noticed the first switch...up = ON and down....i dont know...i guess ..."not ON" Well it was set to "ON". I turned off the power...switched it to "Not ON" and put the power back on...the fan came right on as before. Maybe not a problem, but just wanted to check.a

3....Ive noticed at times...when the outdoor unit cycles on, there is a loud hissing sound..and sometimes a cloud of steam or mist is shot quickly up into the air. Is this a problem? or..is it just blowing off condensation etc? The sound can be startling at times...It doesnt do it everytime, this was more frequent back in the colder days of winter also.

thanks for your help, either email me or post back here thanks a million.
Michael
mdm6713@aol.com

No, no heat pump should run like that.
The low voltage wireing for heat pumps is a little tricky. Add to the t stat used and it can be a nightmare for those who never worked on them. I doubt the issue is the equipment, I think your issue is either the t stat not being compatable for the unit or the wiring is wrong.
If the blower is running and the aux heat as well as the exterior condenser is not running, your green wire, i.e. G terminal fan/blower is either crossed or shorted with the R or red wire which is the hot feed that turns on the blower.

Thanks for your reply, however, this will continue even if I unplug the t-stat from the wall. If I trace back the wires from the blower motor, it goes to what looks like a relay, then the same tap is connected to the breaker, making it hot always. does that sound right? Its seems there was a user change..as there was a splice and a wire nut in there...the factory didnt seem to use any wirenuts, thanks
Michael

First off Goodman equipment stinks. I put way to many of these units in several years ago, only to find that the manufacture does not stand behind its warranty when a coils go bad. But thats another story. Its low end builder quality equipment.
If you disconnect the wires at the air handler does the blower keep running? If not you have a short in the t stat wire. Often if the contractor puts the wires to close to the surface of the wall studs a nail that holds the sheetrock on the wall cuts into it and shorts it out. Another reason can be the staples that hold the wire could be set to deep again cutting the wire.
If the blower continues to run once the low voltage wire is taken off the blower side then the control in the unit is bad.If it shuts off, the wire is bad.

The model number you have is for the auxillary heat strip, not the air handler. I looked up Goodman's web site and found some generic information but no wiring diagrams. I haven't paid close enough attention the the variable speed equipment we install to tell you if yours is wired correctly from memory.
You have an ECM motor (a good thing) and it is very different from those you've seen before.
The dip switches on the controller have more to do with speed settings and mode of operation.
Constant fan is not normal. The steam and hissing noise from the heat pump is a normal defrost cycle.
Since the equipment is fairly new, I would suggest calling a good service contractor for repairs. The motor and controller are probably still within the original warranty period.
A short in the control wiring between the thermostat and air handler could as another poster has suggested, cause this problem as well.
Good Luck.

Hello, thanks for the advice again, let me fill you in on what I saw yesterday.

1. The White nuetral coming in(it is nuetral I tested it) is not connected to anything, the only nuetral being supplied is te equipment ground. Im not sure where to hook the white so I was considering grounding it with the bare copper? Should be ok right?

2. The low voltage trans former is putting out 35.5v not 24v. Im wondering if its also because of the "no nuetral" situation since the power wires seems to be thicker than the only ground it has...possibly causeing some un-even effect.

3. White and Brown tied together - Hooked up so the elec. heat and heat pump would work at the same time im guessing, Im sure this is one reason my bills have been so high. I seperated them, but however...on the control board...there is still a 35v present on both the taps that are supposed to be hooked up to the tstat(35v is there still after unplugging the white and brown).

4. The relay...I think for the fan...Is also constanly supplied with 35V..the relay seems to be closed always.

5. Discovered that If I unhook the control wires(from the control module dip switch wires) that the fan will not run like it did. This probabley menas nothing but I thought I would mention it. Im assuming its not running only because basically the dip switches arent telling it which speed etc.
Ive got some pics I took, to me seems like maybe...3 or 4 wires...mis- connected,...what the previous homeowner thought was ideal.

I got the propery model# also now,
AEPT-030-00C-1A
Serial 0505029123

Installation and Op. intstructions I found. http://site.famousparts.com/goodman/PDF/IO-230F.pdf
Product Specs
AEPT INFO

Thanks again for everybodies help, at this point I need the most basic trouble shooting I guess, trying to figure out the routing of the voltage thats keeping everything constant.

I have some pics I can email to anyone willing to help,

Michael

Stop. Proceed no further. The unit you have is a 230 volt machine. There is no need for a common wire unless you have an air cleaner or humidier that run on 120vac.
It sounds as though there has been some meddling with the unit. Connecting a neutral to a ground can be dangerous and will probably create larger problems.
Time to call some one.

first off. when your talking neutral wire are you talking about line voltage or the low voltage side? If its the low voltage side do not think about the color of the wire.

Although helpful the colors only simplify the installers job knowing what each wire goes to.

The white and brown wires are hooked togeather because you do not have an outside thermostat. If you read the diagram Figure 13 you will see this.

Simply disconnect all the wires. And turn off all breakers at the panel BEFOR doing this.
Then take each wire and connect it as the diagram says.

Do not worry about the voltage off the transformer. Many times the reading is not what the transformer says. If it was to high the controls would have burnt out a long time ago. What is important with these devices is the VA or volt amps output. If its to low, the controls will chatter as more load comes on line.

Do not try to re-engineer the system. Follow the sketch carefully and you will have it working right in no time.

Once again. Do not do any of this with power suppled. The removal and placement of low voltage wires while hot can short out the critical electronics found in most systems today. Just check twice the layout of the wires before restoring power.

the Dip switches are for the control of the supplement heater and motot speed. The fan runs because the heater control is saying that its on. Your issue may be a stuck safety switch on the electrical heating element. This is telling the fan to run even though the heat is not on.
read and follow the directions on page 10 it outlines what the switches are to be set at.