I'm getting two different styles of bids on cleaning my ducts. One is to remove my coil and the other is to just run from the boot. Has anyone had this done and which is the best. I don't want to do the cheaper boot method without knowing that it will take care of my problem. I do have possible mold around one of my regesters.

Jerry, It depends on your hvac system. If you have mold around your register it could be in your system. Nadca and IICRC both agree that this requires a total duct cleaning and the system must be sanitized. This means cleaning from all boots to the main and the main to the furnace. The coils should also be cleaned. Whether they must be removed also depends on the system. But you must have "source removal" cleaning. I have done all types of systems from apartments to high rise buildings. The basic premis is still the same. If you have any questions I would suggest you visit http://www.nadca.com and ALWAYS be sure that your duct cleaner is NADCA certified. If they are not, find one that is. It may cost a little more but it will be done the proper way. I have seen too many hack jobs that I have redone because someone thinks they know how to clean ducts.

Unless mold (from humidity) is a common problem in your area, you should contact a professional hvac contractor and/or indoor air quality specialist to determine what is causing the moisture problem that is creating an environment suitable for growth. Also note that while coil removal requires an EPA approved and certified technician (refrigerant handling) to remove the coil, the tech cleaning your system may need only to cut an access hole into the plenum to access the coil. Once exposed most A-coils have an access plate on each side that allow both the top and bottom surfaces to be thoroughly cleaned without having to remove the coil from the system.

NADCA only has app. 1000 members worldwide, so finding one may be hard. You should also know that their member companies are only required to have one certified technician on staff and that person is not required to be on your job. A better bet would be to get a consensus from several of your area's hvac contractors. They generally know who does quality work and who doesn't, but regardless of who you use make sure that they will clean your entire system and not just the ducts.

Any product that is used as a sanitizer must be labeled for and registered by the EPA for that specific application and that the EPA recognizes their use inside hvac equipment and in the ductwork as two completely different applications. The EPA also does not permit their use on porous surface such as ductboard or on the exposed wood or drywall surfaces that are often found in panned ducts or wall cavities used as ducts. For additional info on duct cleaning, see the EPA's "Should You Have Your Ducts Cleaned?" found on their website at
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html#what%20is%20air%20duct%20cleaning

Thorough cleaning of the entire system can't be done in an hour or so and at a minimum should include all removable vent covers & their respective openings, main supply & return ducts, branch supply & return ducts, plenums, blower cabinet, filter housing, and furnace doors and other components such as the humidifier, electronic air cleaner, washable filter, etc. If permitted by state or local ordinances, it should also include the indoor (evaporator) coil, conditioned air side of the primary and/or secondary heat exchanger and the removal, disassembly and thorough cleaning of the system's blower.

Negative air in the form of vacuum should be used to remove the dirt from the system and that vacuum should be capable of moving at least as much air (cfm) as your system's blower does. Truck-mounted vacs are best. These are rated at 10,000 cfm or more, followed by portable gas vacuums at app. 5000 cfm, & portable electric vacuums at app. 2500 to 5000cfm. The latter should be HEPA filtered when used and exhausted indoors. Newer pneumatic-powered whips & sweeps are very effective at safely dislodging the dirt from metal or fiberglass (ductboard) systems. Flex duct becomes brittle with age and is often better replaced than cleaned. Brush systems work well in round duct, but their effectiveness is often limited in rectangular duct and their size may prohibit use in systems having turning vanes, dampers, and other obstacles inside the ducts. The best duct cleaners will also have a means to prove how well they have cleaned your system. This may be something as simple as a flashlight & mirror or pictures taken (in front of you) with a digital camera. Some now place video cameras inside the duct work allowing them to actually see the dirt as it is being removed and you should be permitted to watch this live along with them. Beware of before and after pics that are easily manipulated. Same is true for video and some scams use tapes and photos that were taken somewhere else.

Ron

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Thanks for the information. I had a company come out and take samples. It showed elevated levels of Penicillium/Aspergillus spores. They want $3000.00 just to remove the carpet and 2' of wall from one bedroom. They lost my trust when they didn't tell us how much the test was going to cost until it was over and then wanted $375.00. They did run a camera into the ducts and didn't find that much dirt but did find some mold around the plenum chamber. Can this all be treated and killed by fogging?

Jerry,

It would be very difficult to tell without seeing the problem firsthand. Did the company take a second sample outdoors to determine whether or not the indoor levels were truly elevated? If they didn't, its possible that the levels they found indoors are the same or lower than those found outdoors.

Mold on non-porous surfaces can be treated. If the plenum is insulated and there is any mold growth on the insulation, then it should be replaced. Contact your hvac service company, they should be able to do that for you. They may also recommend a UV light and it should be installed so that the light shines directly on the coil. Before doing anything though, I'd suggest that you contact BBJ Environmental. The following is a link to their products.

http://www.bbjenviro.com/products.asp

I highly recommend their Microbiocide for Floors and Walls and it may be all you need to treat the surface areas in your home. They also have a Microbiocide for HVAC systems and another for Ducts. Both work equally well for their respective applications and you can apply any of them with a hand sprayer as often as needed. Note: These are not sanitizers and rather than killing on contact, they simply inhibit reproduction (according to BBJ) for up to six months. Unlike many sanitizers, they are also safe to use and do not require evacuation or specialized breathing apparatus during application. I'm also sure that if you call BBJ, their staff will be able to answer any questions you may have.

Ron

Jerry,
Ron is correct on all his points taken. I don't believe that it is that difficult to find a NADCA certified member. While it is true that the company needs only one ACSC on staff, you can request that hed be on-site during the cleaning. I travel many mile to do jobs in Ohio. We actually have two ASCS on staff. I get many requests that I be on-site. Unless it is a virtual impossibility to be there, I always honor the request.. My company also does many mold abatement jobs. It is not unreasonable to remove the contaminated area and the adjoining areas to a certain level. It is very very difficult to kill a mold. Most "sanitizers" generally don't kill the mold spores just make them dormant. That is why source removal is often necessary. Being that there was mold found in the plenumn then by NADCA and IICRC specifications, the entire system needs to be done. These specs are written in the NADCA ACR 2005 and the IICRC 506 (I think). Ron knows the right equipment for the proceedure also. On a nominal size hous of say 30 vents it should take around 4 hours to complete.
I have reservations about asking many HVAC contractors about duct cleaning. There are so many of them that still tell people to use the fiberglass filters. They have no knowledge nor do they care about indoor air quality. I there is a NADCA certified member in your area let me know and I can probably help you getting it done right. We have been NADCA members almost since its' formation.

Kevin

Kevin,

NADCA got its start as a boy's club for powervac owners. As it grew it evolved away from that, but it went too far and has steadily regressed to the point where money speaks louder than quality. I'll grant you that there were some politics being played, but at least in my view, the recent (suppressed) attempt to force change by one of its former president's is further proof of that. The blo & go's are destroying public trust and now more than ever our industry needs an organization that represents unsurpassed quality. NADCA simply doesn't fill that void. Hopefully a new organization will.

Ron

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Help!

The air duct cleaner just finished the work at my house today. They drilled several access holes (total 9 holes) on the main pipes close to the furnace at the basement. Most of the access holes are on the bottom of the pipes and some are on the side. And they seal each hole with a piece of metal sheet and metal tape. My questions are:

(1) Is it ok to have the access holes on the bottom of the pipe? (I read an article mentioned that the "access panel" should not be at the bottom of the duct,not sure if "access panel" and "access hole" are the same). I worried that the access holes will create harzard on the heating system

(2) Is it the correct way to seal the access holes?

Thanks.

Jay