My days as a carpenter's helper are 50 years behind me, but I remember the masters making flawless corners with a coping saw. I think what you do is run one piece straight into the corner. Then you cut the second piece at a 45 degree angle and then cope away the back, cutting exactly along the finished surface where it intersects the 45-degree cut. That way, if the gap opens, there isn't a big hole, because the first piece runs straight into the wall.
I'm sure that's clear as mud, to me as well as to you. I'm sure one or two of the hands-on guys will pop in and make it clear.
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2487 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
Don't know how to explain it any clearer than that. Just that you are left with a piece of 1/4 round with a concave end that will slide right on top of the piece that is perpendicular to it.
General Contractor/Home Builder
Posts: 288 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007
IF COPING ISN'T YOUR THING, ALL YOU NEED IS AN ANGLE FINDER. IT'S AN ADJUSTABLE SQUARE THAT YOU PUT IN YOUR CORNERS AND TIGHTEN THE BOLT THAT HOLDS THE ANGLE. THEN SET THE SQUARE ON YOUR MITER SAW AND ADJUST THE ANGLE ON YOUR SAW TO LINE IT UP WITH THE SAW KERF. THEN DIVIDE THE ANGLE BY 2 AND SET YOUR SAW TO THAT MEASUREMENT. YOU CUT ONE PIECE WITH THE BLADE TURNED TO THE LEFT. THEN MOVE IT TO THE RIGHT(SAME ANGLE)AND CUT YOUR SECOND PIECE. NO NEED FOR A COMPOUND MITER. ONLY ADJUST THE TABLE LEFT OR RIGHT. DON'T TILT THE BLADE.
Well I'll go ahead and open the worm can by saying that moldings like crown or base are not mitred into inside corners, they are coped. Richard has the right idea.
Posts: 216 | Location: Annville, PA | Registered: 03 July 2006
