No you can plaster over the DenArmor, But why? The reason to use this product in the first place is to prevent mold growth. The plaster you will use to cover over it will support the very thing your trying to prevent by using this material.
Posts: 927 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 31 January 2006
Interesting. I guess I wasn't aware that plastering would negate the benefits of the mold resistant drywall and leave it susceptible to mold growth
I did find this on the DensArmor website...
Q:Can veneer plaster be applied over DensArmor Plus® paperless drywall?
A:Yes. Where DensArmor Plus® paperless drywall is to receive a veneer plaster, longer working or open time as well as longer drying times can be expected due to the product's superior moisture-resistance properties. Veneer plasters adhere well to DensArmor Plus panels. Always apply veneer plaster systems according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
It doesn't really say if it a good thing or a bad thing though
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Daveyd,
First to understand why the plaster takes so long to dry is because there is no wicking action that would dry up the plaster like it would if it was on a paperfaced material. The reason the mold does not grow on the DensArmor is because its face is made of fiberglass. I know this first hand as that is all I use when doing a basement project. The fibers break off into my arms and leave them red at the end of the day. The fiberglass does not support mold development as its not organic. Mold needs something to grow on and digest. It cannot digest glass fibers. But the spackel used if its not the stuff that is sold to use with the board will allow mold to develop as it will provide a surface in which the mold can eat. The same goes with the plaster material you would use to coat the surface. This is not to say it will grow fast. Its just it will promote the stuff. As far as durablity of the DensArmor, I had some of this product stored outside two years ago, Last summer it was installed in a bathroom. No worse for the wear. No mold, no falling apart, screwed on fine and looked great once it was done. Great product.
Posts: 927 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 31 January 2006
Originally posted by The Home Care Club LLC: First to understand why the plaster takes so long to dry is because there is no wicking action that would dry up the plaster like it would if it was on a paperfaced material. The reason the mold does not grow on the DensArmor is because its face is made of fiberglass. I know this first hand as that is all I use when doing a basement project. The fibers break off into my arms and leave them red at the end of the day. The fiberglass does not support mold development as its not organic. Mold needs something to grow on and digest. It cannot digest glass fibers. But the spackel used if its not the stuff that is sold to use with the board will allow mold to develop as it will provide a surface in which the mold can eat. The same goes with the plaster material you would use to coat the surface. This is not to say it will grow fast. Its just it will promote the stuff. As far as durablity of the DensArmor, I had some of this product stored outside two years ago, Last summer it was installed in a bathroom. No worse for the wear. No mold, no falling apart, screwed on fine and looked great once it was done. Great product.
I definitely agree with you on the red itchy arms. I hung about 40 pieces and by the end of every day my forearms were really itchy.
Another person on another forum said that the DensArmor would take 90 days to cure before primer and paint could be applied. Any truth in that?
If you do not recommend finishing the DensArmor with plaster, what do you suggest...just regular mud and tape? I am concerned about the roughness of the drywall itself and the rough texture showing through when you prime and paint it.
DensArmor sells its own mud for the seams. Use fiberglass tape. We use both regular mud, a lot of time we use the fast drying stuff so we can get done quicker. So what you use is really up to you. If you really want mold protection use the DensArmor product. But quite frankly most mold conditions come from the back of the board not he front anyway. Mold does much better in dark conditions away from light.
As far as the finish. We prime paint one coat and two coats of finish and it ends up looking fine. The roughness of the finish on the board does not show through at all.
I have no idea about any curing process with the DensArmor. What would be curing anyway? That person had no clue what they were talking about.
Posts: 927 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: 31 January 2006
