Not sure if this the correct category so please be gentle. So I'm in the process of installing Hardwoods. I have 1/2" MDF underlayment with 1.5" tounge/groove underneath. I know I need to remove the MDF, my question is can I naill directly to the subfloor? Should I lay 1/4" luan/ply over the 1.5" subfloor? Also, what is the best method of removing the MDF? I have about 400sq/ft including the kitchen to cover. Thanks for any advice/tips!
How solid is your subfloor? Does it move when walked on? Is the T&G tight? Are you planning to install you new floor across or in the same direction as the subfloor? How was the MDF installed? And last, what kind of hardwood are you planning to install, 3/4", engineered, etc.?
Posts: 24 | Location: Lake Tahoe | Registered: 20 February 2007
JLC~ Floor appears to be sound. As far as movement nothing that I have been able to notice. The floor will be installed perpendicular to the floor joist. Can't tell how the MDF was installed. Bascially 1/2" nailed on top of the 1.5" T/G subfloor. We are looking primarily at solid. I read as much as I could about eng. and the pros/cons. I like solid due to its ability to be refinished and the feel. Moisture is not a huge issue since the crawlspace is already lined with a vapor barrier. I do plan to install a second vapor barrier over the T/G subfloor. Any tips/advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks-T
Hi Terrence, If your MGF is top nailed that hopefully means it wasn't glued down! Sorry, but grunt labor, like with a crow bar, is how you get it up. If you don't have an exposed edge cut a 6"x6" square out with a circular saw to get started. Make sure your subfloor is sound. Screw down at joists if needed. If the T&G planks are square edge and without gaps you might be able to get away with installing directly over it, BUT if you happen to be nailing right over the subfloor T&G space that row could fail. Therefore, it would be safer to sheet it with plywood. Just make sure your total finished height won't be a problem at doorways, etc. And something to think about...Prefinished wood (the new finishes are much more durable than on site finished) that are maintained properly may never need to be refinished. Quality engineered hardwood can be refinished 2 or 3 times. As far as the feel, are you referring to a floating floor, like Kahrs? Engineered strip or plank floors can usually be nailed, just like solid. It is more stable than solid. That is useful if your humidity changes a lot. I'm not trying to sell you on prefinished, but it may offer you some options.
Posts: 24 | Location: Lake Tahoe | Registered: 20 February 2007
JLC~ Thanks for responding. I'm hoping too that the builder was kind enough NOT to glue the MDF down. If so, I may have to solicit some help with that one. As for the T/G flooring I won't know the condition of the gaps untill I pull the old flooring up but will do as you suggested if they are wide. Also, we did purchase a prefinished floor. As you had stated a factory finish will hold up better than an onsite job, not to mention the install will be quicker. We considered engineered but I didn't like the thicknesses they had available and something about thick solid wood under my feet was more appealing. BTW, we went with a Bruce 3/4"-2 1/4" Natural Oak, Select grade. Thanks for your help again, I really appreciate it!
