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  durock to sheetrock joint for shower wall
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Posted
I am building a shower with a double threshold (two framed/tiled walls and two glass walls). On the rear wall of the bathroom, the shower will occupy about 1/2 of the width of the wall. The other half will be sheetrock/painted. My question is how do I transition from the tile to the painted surface? I will have durock behind the shower. I plan on having tile on the wall out to the width of the curb. Should teh joint between the sheetrock and drywall be right at the end of the curb? If not, how do I ensure the tile is on a waterproof substrait while having a smooth surface for painting outside of eth shower? What type of joint compound should I use on this transition from durock to drywall?
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: 22 November 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Can you work it so the transition joint falls behind the last tile coming out of the shower? If so, tape that joint with mesh tape and a coat of modified thinset instead of joint compound. In fact do the same for any and all joints and seams that will fall behind the tile.

If the transition joint cannot be behind the tile due to location then use joint compound and joint tape just as if you were taping sheetrock. Use the joint compound to smooth over the cement board then paint it.
 
Posts: 163 | Location: Ocean Grove, NJ | Registered: 25 January 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks. I can make the joint fall under the last tile. For my Durock joints, do I just use the same fiberglass tape that I typically use on drywall or is there a special tape?
 
Posts: 4 | Registered: 22 November 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have used the regular fiberglass tape but it can break down from the alkaline in the cement. There is a mesh tape sold by the backerboards that is alkalai resistent and holds together better. Probably would be good to use if the wood framing is new as those boards are green and wet and more prone to shrinking and twisting. Thats what causes a lot of the cracks in grout in the corners. The tape helps to minimize cracks due to that corner movement.
 
Posts: 163 | Location: Ocean Grove, NJ | Registered: 25 January 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'm facing the exact same issue as Sling. Just want to verify something. If the transition joint falls behind the last tile, does that mean when you apply the final coat of thinset for the tile, half of the tile is on top of Durock and the other half is over the old drywall. Are there any adhesion concerns with half of the taping job and tile located on the old drywall and latex paint?
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 08 May 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If the paint is adhered well to the drywall you should be fine. This joint is outside of the wet area of the tub/shower surround, correct?
 
Posts: 163 | Location: Ocean Grove, NJ | Registered: 25 January 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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One joint will be outside of the wet area, with all tiles on the Durock and no tiles on top of the joint - I will tape and finish just like drywall, as you perscribed. The other joint is also outside of the wet area, but I have a piece of 4X12 bullnose landing rignt on the joint (half on the Durock, half on the old painted greenboard.
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 08 May 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'm installing Durock around 3 sides of a tub and shower.. Does the two vertical joints in the corners get taped and thin-set also? Or do you just caulk those for expansion?
I know the tiles are caulked in those areas.. but what about the Durock?
thanks,
John
 
Posts: 1 | Registered: 04 June 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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