Funny. I haven't seen him say that once. He says that water enters which can lead to mold problems.
On just about every page of this thread.
Page 1:
Since an inside method does not stop/prevent water from entering it also will not stop-prevent Mold,efflorescence or possibility of radon gas from entering,only an outside method will do this.
Any inside company is going to charge for a method that does not stop water,does not prevent mold-radon from entering and a method that does not in Any way lessen lateral & hydrostatic pressure that is against the Outside of basements walls.
Page 2:
How will Any inside method stop-prevent water, mold,radon,hydrostatic-lateral pressure and insects from entering your home?
Should I continue? If he hasn't said it directly, he infers it by continually grouping mold with radon and insects.
...that doesnt actually stop water from entering,doesnt stop/prevent Mold-Radon gas-Termites & other insects--hydrostatic pressure.
quote:
What information do you have to suggest that repairing a crack and waterproofing will lead to another crack?
What information do you have to show it won't? I presented a hypothetical situation using LWP's approach and broke it down. Do you not understand the meaning of hypothetical, potential, possible. I would be very interested in knowing how many times he has had a callback to fix another new leak and where that leak was.
quote:
He's in Michigan...do you think he gives a **** which contractors people in Georgia or Maine use?
Funny thing is this forum is open to the entire planet and I have seen him give advise to more than one person in this thread that do not live in MI.
Both of you keep going back to the same old crap that inside systems don't work. You have provided about 38 pages showing how they can and will fail, and I'm not disagreeing with those assessments. Why do you and LWP keep harping on an issue that has been beaten to death.
Please point out to me where I have stated or even inferred that inside systems should be used over outside systems. In fact, what I have said is:
quote:
I'm not endorsing any particular approach here. I believe you do whatever it takes to fix the problem permanently.
If you are unwilling to intelligently discuss the points being brought up then why are you even bothering to post?
This message has been edited. Last edited by: KYO,
Maybe it's because of the constant advertising and sales practices of the unethical companies that install those systems. If the truth is pointed out only once, it gets buried in old posts where most people don't bother to look, but the advertisements of those companies appear weekly or daily in newspapers, and exist constantly in the yellow pages, and even on radio and TV.
The supply of wet basements seems to be endless, and the inquiries in this forum are frequent. That is why we keep repeating the fallacies under which those systems are sold.
And in case you haven't noticed, LW is a contractor, not a writer, but even so, I, for one, have always understood what he meant, and never assumed he was claiming that mold entered through cracks in foundations.
Yes, I understand "hypothetical"...it's like the observation the "hypothetically", bees can't fly, but since they do not know that, they go ahead and fly anyway, or they did until recently. Maybe that's what happened to the bees...the hypothetical finally hit home.
The problem is, one can't hypothetically cure a leaking basement. One must ACTUALLy do so. If someone hit upon a method that worked almost 30 years ago, does it make sense to ask that person to suddenly begin experimenting? If we were talking about multi-million dollar projects, sure it would. But we're not.
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2570 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
Furthermore your example is not valid. I can walk outside and see a bee flying, therefore your hypothesis is null and void.
Did I say anything about experimenting? I simply brought up some points to consider. These are valid points and concerns, and any informed homeowner should be asking them.
The point of this tread is to inform homeowners is it not? Oh wait, I forgot, only you and LWP have valid information to provide and everyone else are nothing but lying, dishonest cheats.
quote:
And in case you haven't noticed, LW is a contractor, not a writer, but even so, I, for one, have always understood what he meant, and never assumed he was claiming that mold entered through cracks in foundations.
Yes, that is quite evident, but just because you understood what he was saying does not mean everyone who reads his posts will. If you can't speak clearly and succinctly don't speak at all.
quote:
If the truth is pointed out only once, it gets buried in old posts where most people don't bother to look,
You both know what a hyperlink is right? In case you don't, here is an example of a hyperlink that points to the definition of a hyperlink.
READ...AND TRY if YOU can to UNDERSTAND the THOROUGH-links that have been posted....posted over and over, guess you people either can`t understand, don`t care to read them because the FACTS within them are totally CONTRARY to what you Inside scammers say/think...try and sometimes succeed at BS`g homeowners about.
i certainly hope people won`t let YOU into their home for any estimate. There is an INCREASED chance/risk of MOLD....when one allows water/moisture to enter-THROUGH cracks/loose parging...THE BASEMENT WALL....D U H. http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/images/moldguide.pdf
"you must clean up the mold and FIX the WATER problem...if you clean up the mold but don`t fix the water problem then, most likely,the mold problem will come back"
Well DUH, when water/moisture if coming through cracks/loose parging/openings on the OUTSIDE then...in order to FIX-stop-prevent the water problem at its ENTRY-POINT, you must go OUTSIDE...Inside sytsme do NOT fix-stop-prevent this water from where its FIRST entering, got that? probably not and never will.
"EXPERTS.....They say EXPERTS AGREE on one thing, if you got mold you need to get rid of it. MORE IMPORTANTLY, you need to ELIMINATE the CAUSE" can YOU people AT ALL grasp this, its not difficult
THEY say.."Find the MOISTURE, eliminate the moisture, clean up the mold"
THEY say.."LOCATE (yeah, DEFINE knothead) and fix the LEAKS immediately"
THEY say.."Cleaning up the mold is NOT ENOUGH. You MUST FIND the Water-SOURCE (DUH!!!) and....Eliminate it"...geeeeezuz K! What do YOU Inside CHEATS find sooo hard in understanding THIS? lololol, like i say, i would NEVER, not one time, let fools like these in my house, EVER.
Termites/ants and other insects love wet/damp areas/spaces...HOW to they ENTER homes? And what`s ONE way RADON can ENTER homes?
2nd para..."the major points of ENTRY are the cracks, joints and other PENETRATIONS. It is THESE OPENINGS in WALLS that allow SOIL-GAS to enter the building" understand? Inside systems/laboreres do NOT go utside and seal/waterproof any/all openings/penetrations
Whats interesting folks is....MOST INSIDE COMPNIES will leave the bottom of crack(s) on inside of bsmt wall...OPEN. Uh huh, they leave the bottom of cracks in poured walls OPEN, they don`t waterproof the Outside of any cracks/the wall.
And....they will leave a spcae/gap along the cove,cold joint WIDE-OPEN! Oh yes they do.
Now, what do those LINKS say is ONE way RADON will enter YOUR basement? Yep, THROUGH FLOOR-WALL Joints! Hello?
EPA link...radon can enter your home THROUGH a) cracks in concrete slabs b) spaces between brick veneer walls.... c) PORES and CRACKS in concrete BLOCKS d) FLOOR-WALL JOINTS (the cold joint/cove!!!) e) exposed soil, as in a SUMP f) weeping drain tile, if drained to open sump
EPA..."Radon gas can enter a home from-the-SOIL THROUGH cracks in floors and walls, floor drains, sump pumps, construction joints and TINY CRACKS or PORES in HOLLOW-Block WALLS"
To REPEAT because this is vaguely important most companies who install INSIDE Systems do NOT seal/waterproof anything on the OUTSIDE and THEN, LEAVE the bottom 6" or so of cracks in poured walls open and they leave gaps open along where your floor and wall meet.
And on block walls, they drill HOLES on the inside of bottom courses of hollow blocks, another EASY access for radon to ENTER. I hope they at least give you a good cover for sump pump, some don`t. Yep, radon can enter basement up-through sumps, better have a cover.
Ok, Tim aka ask-the-builder- geology major/Bach. of Science degree..says what? and look dipstick, i`ve worked UNDEGROUND for 29 years, in all types of soils, have seen more often then YOU`LL ever know how water percolates through these soils, around homes/against BASEMENTS.
2nd para "Many soils absorb vast quantites of water and this added water, COMBINED with the SOIL, pushes against your foundation wall. THIS FORCE IS COMMONLY REFERRED TO AS HYDROSTATIC PRESSURE"
"water vapor readily passes through concrete...liquid water can soak into concrete, proof of this is easy as efflorescence...a prime exampkle of water movement. The water enters the concrete, dissolves the salts and then moves towards your basement. Once at the surface of the concrete wall, the liquid water evaporates and leaves the salt deposits behind"
"To PERMANENTLY STOP water and water vapor from entering your foundation WALLS, you NEED to WATERPROOF them....don`t CONFUSE Waterproofing with damproofing, not for a moment
Damproofing is an inexpensive way to meet-the-lowest-minimum standard of the building code..."
"Many, many consumers 'THINK' they have waterprofed basements, when in fact they simply have been damproofed. Damproofing is a low cost method of retarding water infiltration. It is by NO means a TRUE Waterproofing membrane"
And Backfilled with gravel/peastone....very few homes/basement walls have been backfilled correctlly.
Hey Mr supposed Landscaper and inside friends...... THEY SAY SUMP PUMP SYSTEMS is NOT the APPROACH WE RECOMMEND..Its NOT WATERPROOFING.....................THIS APPROACH does NOT ELIMINATE MOLD (YOU people understand MOLD?), does not eliminate mildew, fungus which can be associated with health problems.
Bldg Dept says the PREFERRED METHOD for dealing with damp and leaking basements is to dig---outside method--gravel...they say 'thats Wtaerproofing done right'
Have many more that have been posted, yet since they go AGAINST what you SELL, you obviouslly discard these peoples thoughts/FACTS and can`t stand to read `em!
HOMEOWERS-- If You all of a sudden get water on your basement floor(never had problem before/no cracks in walls/no moldy walls/no efflorescence on wall) upon heavy rain, in one OR more areas i URGE you to FIRST see/find out if you ONLY have a BLOCKAGE under the floor which can indeed cause water to ACCUMULATE `n BACK UP ONTO your FLOOR....an exp`d/honest PLUMBER may be the ONLY person you need. Access to free blockages may be through the strom trap-cleanout or, if you have a sump then you may have a blockage in line under floor, SNAKE `EM!!! Most plumbers charge $100 to maybe $175 ish...depends.
This ever been recommended to you by Inside company/salesperson/owner...huh? Why you think that is.....yep. Why would YOU take the word/sales garbage of company who ONLY DOES/installs ONE thing.
Thats right Mr Kyo/Jay all other nics ya have.... INSIDE DRAIN TILE and BASEBOARD SYSTEMS do NOT lessen/relieve hydrostatic lateral pressure off the outside of ANY basement wall, never has, never will.THESE COMPANIES DO NOT hand dig, they either do not have the necessary INSURANCE for EXTERIOR Method and/or do not have good/experienced LABOR it takes to do this work. And, MOST likely...they THEMSELVES--the Owner does NOT want to work-that-hard for YOU when they can bs you into a much easier means/inside system that should keep water that will still enter, off the basement floor or, at least most of the basement floor. AND...they put alor MORE of YOUR MONEY in THEIR pocket! They use ALOT less MATERIALS....pay mostly young-laborers alot less
another thing...Thoroughly READ their contract/the SUPPOSED lifetime guarantee...lifetime guarantee for what? Most will state something like "we guarantee no water on FLOOR in areas where work was performed"
They do NOT guarantee that NO MORE water or moisture will penetrate/pass THROUGH the basement walls, most don`t guarantee that sump pump either, you better find out dont ya think? How LONG ya think those pumps are going to last?
WHO has accumulated, just within the LAST 36 MONTHS... 10-20-30-50++ BBB Customer Complaints? Folks...the last 36 MONTHS, lolol. Not talking about 3 complaints over 30 years! 36 M O N T H S!!
It is "NOT' the few remaining licensed/Ins`d Outside contractors!!!! yeah, THATS RIGHT... it is companies who ONLY/MOST often install INSIDE SYSTEMS....hello...wake up America/Canada
Why do these companies who state how professional they are, that they are experts (PFFFFTTTT!) and care sooo much about each `n every homeowner...why do they have the same RECURRING problems/complaints? Ever think of that??? The reasons have been redundantly explained thoughout this thread
Reading back through the last few pages of posts in this thread, I find so many misrepresentations, distortions, and inane comments and positions that I could spend a whole day responding to them, probably only to trigger more of the same.
Like someone who claims to be a contractor suggesting that one can save $1800 worth of gravel on an $1800 job. Like someone who claims that a couple of tradesmen working at the bottom of an excavation can magically change whatever soil is there to an impervious clay layer and cause an underground lake to occur where none would have occurred otherwise. (not realizing that if the water is there now, it would have been there before, too, but possibly in soil that combined with the water could have caused more pressure on the foundation than would be possible now) Oh, but of course, that was "hypothetical".
There has been enough pedantry and insanity posted here lately to last a couple of years. One wonders about the real purpose of it all. One wonders about the true motives of those who post in such a spirit. I guess we'll find out, sooner or later.
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2570 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
its one reason i started posting, there are waaaay too many cheats/scammers in THIS business and its the HOMEOWNERS we care about that get screwed by these crooks.All we can do is try and help inform folks, arm them with the facts. Thanks for taking the time/effort on HGTV and elsewhere to try and help people Rich
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
If your going to state that I said something, you **** well better QUOTE ME. When I speak in absolutes I provide a reference to a credible source, you on the other hand sling around wild opinions that have no basis in fact and no references (credible or otherwise) to backup them up.
quote:
I find so many misrepresentations, distortions, and inane comments and positions that I could spend a whole day responding to them, probably only to trigger more of the same.
Please Richard, I implore you to provide credible information showing anything I said is not true. Once again you better quote me.
quote:
Like someone who claims to be a contractor suggesting that one can save $1800 worth of gravel on an $1800 job
Once again Richard, only seeing what you want to see. I never said that. Please Richard, show me where I stated that.
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Like someone who claims that a couple of tradesmen working at the bottom of an excavation can magically change whatever soil is there to an impervious clay layer
And again, I said compacted, not impervious. There is nothing magical about this. Guess what Richard, when you apply a force to a compressible substance it reduces volume or in other words COMPACTS. I suppose now you and LWP and going to tell me the laws of physics are a bunch of lies. Furthermore you don't even have to compact it. The permeability rate of a clay soil is orders of magnitude slower that that of gravel and therefore water WILL back up.
Two types of water tables occur in soils: perched and apparent. A perched water table is the top of a zone of saturation that is separated from permanent groundwater by a soil layer of very slow permeability. An apparent water table is the top of a zone of saturation in a soil in which there are no dense or confining layers.
Permeability rates are given in inches per hour. Typical rates are 0.01 inches per hour for compact clay, 0.5 inches per hour for a loam with good structure, and 15 inches per hour for a loamy sand.
What say you now wise one? Now I expect your going to say that all this data is nothing but scams and lies heh?
quote:
(not realizing that if the water is there now, it would have been there before, too, but possibly in soil that combined with the water could have caused more pressure on the foundation than would be possible now)
Right on Richard, continue to talk about stuff you don't understand.
Ok, now let's consider a clay soil vs. gravel. Clay soils have a very high water holding capacity, gravel little or no water holding capacity.
So what do we have with our french drain example? We have water building up against the foundation in a soil that has little or no water holding capacity. Contrary to what you want to believe, this leads to a NET INCREASE of hydrostatic pressure being exerted against the foundation, because remember that hydrostatic pressure is a FLUID PROPERTY, not a soil property. This my ignorant friend is why you DRAIN the water in the gravel around your footings.
So lets summarize. If the french drain you created when repairing the wall does allow water to build up without providing direct drainage for that water, the hydrostatic pressure against the foundation where water is present (right around the wall/footing cold joint) is going to be greater than if that same amount of water was contained in a clay soil.
Go on boys, tell me a clay soil doesn't hold more water than gravel?
Don't believe me? Try this simple experiment. Take two of your house plants. Put one in a clay soil, the other in gravel. Water them equally and see which one dies first.
The only thing you accomplished by replacing the soil in this SPECIFIC example is to relieve some of the lateral load on the wall due to the swelling potential of the soil, assuming it had any to begin with.
Homeowners want the FACTS, not baseless opinions. Tell me Richard, based on the above and your claims, who is the one perpetrating misrepresentations and distortions? You both keep talking about common sense when it is quite apparent neither one of you have any.
So Richard and LWP, keep on posting your ignorant uninformed statements and dig that hole of discredit a little bigger.
kyo the landscaper/supposed soil guru, NON Basement waterproofing expert. Notice, this fool has changed nic several times, he NEVER has informed us his location, company etc...just kinda hiding about and shooting nonsense from pie hole.
Hey kyo, folks know who we are, Richard `n i, some have called, they know we are legit. Why are you apparently so afraid to inform readers who ya are, huh? Got something to hide? Must be.
29 years, NOT one homeowner with any problem due to our recomendation/work..how we backfill. That speaks LOADS...just how many waterproofing jobs have YOU done, guaranteed..huh? For how long?
How about BBB CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS Mr wise guy..... say it yet again....Capizzo Const/RL Stremersch/Clark Water`g/Downriver...myself....your talking many DECADES here! DECADES of PROOF, proof of Waterproofing EXTERIOR, ZERO customer complaints....ever.
Versus what YOU say, what other posters here from Inside Co`s state here....MANY have 10-20-30-50++ BBB CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS just within the LAST 36 MONTHS!!!
But you people keep coming on here and posting bs, you are disagreeing with companies who have NO Customer complaints in 25-30+++ Years! Disagree ALL you like, when you disagree with companies who have PROVEN/HONEST track record/method who`ve been WATERPROOFING for decades verus many who`ve been in business for 5-10 years,who POST HERE, and already have 10-30 customer complaints....its VERY obvious to most with any common sense its YOU people who have problems and will ALWAYS have problems/customer complaints for one or more of the reasons/facts that have been redundantly posted.
If homeowners can`t figure it out and rather hire companies who only/mostly install inside systems then...so be it! Some of us have TRIED to WARN them.
Maybe i should post another FACTUAL list of Inside Co`s who keep accumulating BBB/State Consumer Affairs COMPLAINTS....would you like to see a partial list Mr kyo, the guru of waterproofing, huh?
One more thing Kyo and others, slander = a malicious, "FALSE", and defamatory statement or report/a slander against his good name-- Case you aren`t aware, companies i posted above INCLUDING MY OWN has a VERY GOOD NAME
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
I don't give a flying rats a** about inside vs. outside companies. THIS DISCUSSION IS NOT ABOUT INSIDE VS.OUTSIDE COMPANIES. When are you going to get that through your thick skulls?
Your like a broken record, stating the same thing over and over again and it has NOTHING to do with the issue at hand. The issue is the dissemination of inaccurate information to homeowners by LWP and Richard.
I haven't said all of it was, in fact I applaud you in your effort to make homeowners aware of scams. I did say some of the information you are providing is inaccurate. Address THAT issue LWP and Richard and STOP acting like children.
You keep saying your an expert at waterproofing, and after 30 years I hope you are. However LWP, where does engineering, soil mechanics, drainage, radon, mold, and insects fall into your field of expertise? Are you also an expert in all these fields? Based on your endless repetitive posts it would appear you want people to believe you are, even when I have shown you clearly are not.
I am posting FACTS that you CANNOT refute, yet you CONTINUE to avoid the points I bring up or try to make them into something they are not. When I prove you wrong ONCE AGAIN, you start in with the insults, name calling, and accusations.
Richard, is it not helping people by providing FACTS? Do you really believe your uninformed and easily proved false statements are actually helping people?
Let's be LWP for a moment.
Hey homeowner, lets dig a hole next to your foundation and create a French drain that carries water directly to your foundation without providing drainage for it.
But hey, don't worry about that cause I going to slop enough tar on your foundation there so you never will have to worry about THAT PARTICULAR location again. Who cares if water builds up there, even though every recommended design in the industry states to remove it.
Oh, and keep on dumping water next to your foundation cause no matter what the industry recommendations state, they are bs.
I've been doing this for 30 years and I'm telling you that removing the water from around the foundation is a stupid and useless idea. Just slop a bunch of tar on the cracks when they appear and you will be OK.
Oh yea, and it it VERY important for you to backfill with gravel at the particular portion of your foundation to relieve lateral and hydrostatic pressure, but the REST of you foundation is OK.
BTW, when the next leak occurs at a different location because I told you to ignore the bigger problem be sure to give me a call.
And one more thing. don't hold me responsible for all the interior damage that occurred from that new leak cause of my purely self-serving or simply ignorant advise.
LWP, any idiot knows if you slop enough tar on a crack it's going to seal it, and seal it for a long time. Do I have to be a guru at waterproofing to know that? Do I have to be a guru with pegs and holes to know that a square peg won't fit in a round hole?
Have I stated anywhere that slopping tar on a crack won't seal it?
Have I stated anywhere that using a method designed to provide a capillary break should be used to seal a crack?
The whole point point here is not about what waterproofing works or doesn't work.
This IS about you LWP and Richard, providing FALSE and MISLEADING information to homeowners that are most likely taking your statements at face value.
This, my uneducated friends who continue to dance around the real issue, is as dishonest and deceitful as the very people you condemn.
BTW Richard, how did you like that animation? Pretty da*m funny considering your statements heh?
This message has been edited. Last edited by: KYO,
The only point you make is a ridiculous one. The water was there before, and it will be there after, except now it's not contained in soils which can do damage to the wall, and the backfill no longer contains unsuitable materials or undesireable soils. The wall is waterproofed in that location. What is the problem?
You are basing your entire rants (and that's what they are) on the assunmption that water caused the crack in the wall. There are many other reasons for a crack in a foundation wall. I guess you were absent during your brilliant scholastic career when they were discussed.
The point is, there was a crack in a wall. The crack was repaired. The wall no longer leaks. Period. Has nothing to do with smectite. There is no evidence that LW's customers EVER have to call him back for another repair five feet away, as you falsely suggest. The man says he's been doing this work for almost 30 years, and not ONE complaint. Do you not think that if someone gets a crack every couple of years, five feet away from the crack they had before, that they wouldn't complain?
As I said what seems like years ago, this forum is for helping people. You and your red ink do not help anyone. You are making a huge issue over 50 bucks worth of gravel. I ask again, what is your REAL motive? I notice you STILL post anonymously. Why not reveal your REAL name, like we do?
LW backs every statement he makes with a link to an authoitative source. If you have issues, it should be with those authoritative sources. Take your pedantry and your venom there. Go straighten them out. I'm sure they'll be happy to hear from you. No one here is. Not me, not LW, and not any of the homeowners who come here to ask for help. You have shown that you don't even know the difference between dampproofing and waterproofing. Some expert. How many successful waterproofing jobs have YOU done? ZERO, right? Compare that to, say, one every two days for 30 years, without a complaint. Guess who comes in a distant second, expert.
You are an expert at pedantry, and nothing else. Go ahead and spout your venom. People are intelligent enough to know who helps, and who is out to do damage. Let them be the judge.
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2570 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
this will be 'MY LAST' attempt answering 'Kyo`s' DRIVEL... and Sonia, only posters who may have as you say turned this into an arena are the posters from companies who install inside systems, almost all of them don`t inform us who they really are/where from etc. THIS THREAD was FINE and factual until they arrived!!
And Sonia....you`ll probably take this wrong but im going to let it roll anyways, first thing....thank YOU for thanking Richard! Secondly, i`ve busted my tail as well to take LOTS of TIME here and on other sites to TRY and HELP MANY people, people from other states, they have called me and/or i`ve called them or emailed them back w/very lengthy probabilities about their leaks/problems. Maybe some of em will pop up and back up what i`ve just said. But to point out that Rich was 'only' person who took time to answer you is slighting my rear end a bit. Yes, of course he tried to help/answer you and AGAIN, THANK god we have Richard here...don`t get me wrong!!!! Have not had opportunity to speak w/Richard on phone, one day hopefully we can, like to thank him again! Have spoke with DEB from NH though, shes nice/hardworking lady
Ya see, IF more posters would take the TIME and READ the links provided many would answer their own quest`s. I cannot respond to every soul as much as i try. Say again, i started this thread to HELP inform folks, then take buncha CRAP from quite a few Inside fools-some who change their nic every week or so and then post bogus/bs questions, i get tired of trying to distinguish who is blllchht`g and who isnt...know what i mean?
I have taken calls at 5am and at 10pm from homeowners out of state and stayed on phone with them for 1/2-1 hour trying to answer their quests- all the while, im tring to run my own business and take calls from homeowners here who`ll actually put me to work so i can maybe...pay my bills, ya know And let me add, darn it, doing this while i actually am on every JOB SITE busting my tail and hand-digging a hole every day(not rainy days)...then trying to help/post here.And i mean hand digging holes 8-14' length and 5-8' deep, waterproofing the wall, backfilling, clean up, and doin` all the other SHTT i do...and nearly 50 yrs old, you kidding? To anyone who THINKS its not hard/relatively easy to hand dig every day/every other day, for decades...you go ahead and just try to hand dig a small 6' x 6' deep trench, go ahead..i am SOOOO g dang tired of not only dealing with many inside losers but also, some who think THEIR job is so difficult, bs...come spend a day or 2 with us. Tired of the pretty much thank-LESS people who seem to think their world/their leak is the ONLY one that matters, bs! Done what i can and so has Richard and couple others here, you people want to continue to get misled/misinfomred then go right ahead
Ok Kyo, its obvious you can`t/won`t read and understand ANYTHING other than whats in your head. You say that YOU ARE posting facts i cannot REFUTE...lol, i have NEVER said i was any termite/radon/mold etc EXPERT...NEVER have...
This is WHY i have posted many, many links from OTHERS to verify thoughts here, incl`g.. what IS the best backfill to have against/along a basement wall, what helps lessen/relieve hydrostatic lateral pressure against a wall, why there may be mold and efflorescence growing on basement walls-and how to stop it and clean it, how radon can enter anyones basement, how termites can enter and so on.
Now, are YOU SAYING the OTHER-LINKS are wrong, are YOU saying they are not FACTUAL?
Geezuz...YOU say i have provided FALSE and Misleading information to homeowners...when the REALILTY is(again) i have posted/provided LINKS from OTHERS, they include.....
Are ANY of the LINKS posted so far FALSE? HUH? Lets see what YOU SAID again ..."I am providing false and misleading information to homeowners' and 'YOU post facts I cannot REFUTE'... right? To prove to be false? lolol i believe the FACTS speak for themselves, just posted em, refuted your drivel.
Here some more hot shot, are these also FALSE?
BLDG DEPT in OHIO, are THEY providing false/misleading information, yes or no nitwit?
They say, they allow sump pump systems ALTHOUGH it is NOT the approach they recommend as these Inside Systems are water management, its not waterproofing and these systems do NOT ELIMINATE MOLD/mildew/fungus....which can associated with health problems. THEY say the 'Preferred Method' for dealing w/damp and leaking basements is an Outside method which includes backfilling with gravel.
IF YOU Kyo have a problem with these LINKS them e-mail them! When i find something i disgaree with, i email `em as i have NUMEROUS times to several STATE Govt`s,the media,the BBB, city council members and soooo on. Thats right, i may post my disagreement with article here but also call/write whoever wrote the shtt.
This Bob Vila and ask-the-builder articles FALSE too?
'dance around the 'real issue', is as dishonest and deceitful...? You make up lots of shtt as you go dont ya.
By the way Kyo....to refure another statement of yours..when YOU state backfill w/garvel at particular portion...but est of foundation is on... man you really are lost! lolol
Many folks who have only one leaky area/1 crack, well duh, thats all they need waterproofed. And...they do NOT have any wall movement/bowing/shifting whatever...so Mr Bullwinkle, waterproofing that 5'or 10' portion is all they need, they have no other leaks/problems of any kind elsewhere, hello? If a leak/crack/loose parging occurs elsewhere in future then repair that portion, there has been absolutely no harm in what i and several others have done over 25-35 years, J krist, thats a proven track record/success whether you know it/admit it or not, I don`t care what some posters throughts/ideas are when 1) they won`t say who they really are 2) where their from 3) have NO hands-on waterproofing-excavating experience...apparently have never backfilled w/gravel and chtt, i could go on and on, tired of THIS SHTT, YOUR shtt!
YOU or anyone else is somehow going to post ANONYMOUSLY and try and tell me what i`ve done is wrong/that YOU are somehow right-know more about backfilling against walls, that YOU somehow have some superior-insight about dumping water next to foundation etc etc.
Did your foolish self READ the AU architect article, the AU soil article, the engineer article, Tim C article...all about SOILS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Read, TRY and understand, which isn`t likely is it. Somehow you know more than them too. Mr Educated....nonsense!
29 years of waterproofing all types of walls, gravel backfill on every one of them, not one problem. The REAL PROOF is in the work, proof is decades of doing this/showing that backfilling w/gravel IS BEST ya fool. Nary a problem yer somehow, Mr Anonymous says there is!!!!!!
If there was this potential/real problem w/backfilling w/gravel, as YOU say, myself/Cappizo/Stremersch/Clark?Downriver wat`g etc would have MASSIVE call backs/complaints!!!
Walls would be bowing in,re cracking/widening, tons of water entering....so, WHERE ARE THE COMPLAINTS/CALL BACKS, HUH? 25-35 YEARS....surely there would be at LEAST 1,000 court cases, news articles....WHERE ARE THEY MR GURU? Dammmmmit. This alone refutes your trash you post/suggest.
You seem to think its best/better/fine to allow water to enter, ever hear of block wall DETERIORATION? And to install Inside systems which allow water-to-run-FLOW-UNDER the floor, along a footing! YOU ever hear of undermining a footing, a wall? And your lousy sump pumps continually pump water back outside, great, just great, MORE expansion of the soil around the home, thats great.
Yeah thats great, allow flowing/running water under a horizontal floor and inside along a footing!! Backups in THESE Inside system lines/drain DO OCCUR, same with sumps...thats great too...when they do occur a TON more flowing/running WATER accumulating and backing up under the floor, ALONG the FOOTINGS! Ah, buts thats ok with YOU huh.
As for diverting SURFACE water away from a house, here has been MY point, MY EXPERIENCE......GAINED from....DUH....seeing every possible goofball means and of trying to solve leaky basements by diverting surface/just below grade...they do NOT seal/repair the actaul crack/loose parging/openings around basement windows/tuckpointing etc! It ONLY diverts 'SOME SURFACE' water away, several feet away. They cannot divert ALL water away from a house Mr Soily-pants.And thats right, any inspector or anyone else who assumes most leaky basements which have a crack/loose parging etc can be solved by RAISING/sloping the grade is WRONG!
And your **** right i am a basement waterproofing expert, take that to the bank Mister. Been expert witness in courts to help those homeowners who`ve been lied to/screwed etc, thats right, Have testified about soil pressure,lateral hydrostatic soil pressure, why basements leak,mold,efflorescence, why basement walls crack-bow etc...and where i am not an actual expert, like a radon or mold expert, i provide the COURT with numerous links of THOSE WHO ARE or, bring in a radon etc expert. Yeah, a THOROUGH waterproofing expert..and have done so for FREE!!! I don`t want 2 cents, i`ll EARN my money HONESTLY when needed.
See, one would have to actually do-the-job, work outside, and see for decades what works and what doesnt. I`m done with YOUR ANONYMOUS GARBAGE.
And let me add, darn it, doing this while i actually am on every JOB SITE busting my tail and hand-digging a hole every day(not rainy days)...then trying to help/post here.And i mean hand digging holes 8-14' length and 5-8' deep, waterproofing the wall, backfilling, clean up, and doin` all the other SHTT i do...and nearly 50 yrs old, you kidding? To anyone who THINKS its not hard/relatively easy to hand dig every day/every other day, for decades...you go ahead and just try to hand dig a small 6' x 6' deep trench, go ahead..i am SOOOO g dang tired of not only dealing with many inside losers but also, some who think THEIR job is so difficult, bs...come spend a day or 2 with us. Tired of the pretty much thank-LESS people who seem to think their world/their leak is the ONLY one that matters, bs! Done what i can and so has Richard and couple others here, you people want to continue to get misled/misinfomred then go right ahead