1. it will/should keep water off most of your floor for.......awhile
The Bad......
2. it does NOT Stop water from entering your basement walls
The UGLY.....
3. it will NOT stop/prevent Mold, will NOT stop/prevent Radon gas from entering through cracks `n other Outside openings, will NOT stop termites-insects from entering through cracks etc, will NOT stop-relieve hydrostatic & lateral pressure that is against the Outside of Bsmt Walls and causes Walls to crack,bow and even collapse
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
Haege says " here is a good way to separate the men from the boys among ALL the Waterproofing Contractors"..." ONLY Waterproofers who are Members of the NAWSRC"
Now the NAWSRC says "it has been a Champion of the rights of its members and consumers requiring Strict Ethics & Standards from its members, and its Ethics have become a MODEL for the industry http://www.nawsrc.org/aboutus.php scroll to 3rd paragraph.....
Here is a list of NAWSRC members and 'some' Members complaints listed with the BBB
My questions is I live on a very high water table. I almost got scamed on the inside direct method vs outside method. However, here is something that is different. Someone offered me a solution of adding a second sump pump as a way to releive some of the pressure. It did rain for a week and the pump that I had a 3/4 hourse could not keep up with the water so I ended up with about a foot of water. Any thoughts would be helpful
sump pumps only use is to.....control water LEVEL under the bsmt floor before it can accumulate `n rise up through cracks in bsmt floor on heavy-longer rains. So, as long as you do NOT have water coming from the Bsmt Walls & 'Only' have water coming up through floor cracks then Yes, a good-sump pump(S) should be able to handle volume of water under floor.ANY homeowner who ONLY has Water coming up through bsmt floor cracks AND has a Storm trap should......'First' find an exp/honest plumber and have them snake through S-trap, quite often this is where THE blockage is which is.....causing the water to....back up AND accumulate under bsmt floor and rise up through flr cracks etc.
Like i`ve said, these inside co.`s, thats really all they are doing anyways, putting sump in.......its just that they are trying to BS people into the notion/idea they need to break up floor w/j hammer around perimeter `n put plastic tile and a lil peastone, and some also try `n sell ya bunch of other shtt like 'EZ Breathe' etc, when all that was needed was a good-sump(S)....know what i mean?
There is a BIG difference with having water coming 'from' bsmt wall, from the cold joint versus....having water coming up-through bsmt floor cracks thus, different remedies....a problem Only under the floor does not require Outside mehtod, a problem with the bsmt walls does not require a sump etc.
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
Well, I only have water coming up through my sump pit not coming in through cracks in the floor or wall. The problem is there is a lot of standing water in the sump pit with the pump constantly going off for the last month every few minutes. So I was wondering if having 2 pumps instead of one would help or should I try outside metheod to move the water away before it gets to the pit. Unfortunetly the builder should have taken certain percautions because of the water. Your thoughts would be helpful
quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofer: ma,
sump pumps only use is to.....control water LEVEL under the bsmt floor before it can accumulate `n rise up through cracks in bsmt floor on heavy-longer rains. So, as long as you do NOT have water coming from the Bsmt Walls & 'Only' have water coming up through floor cracks then Yes, a good-sump pump(S) should be able to handle volume of water under floor.ANY homeowner who ONLY has Water coming up through bsmt floor cracks AND has a Storm trap should......'First' find an exp/honest plumber and have them snake through S-trap, quite often this is where THE blockage is which is.....causing the water to....back up AND accumulate under bsmt floor and rise up through flr cracks etc.
Like i`ve said, these inside co.`s, thats really all they are doing anyways, putting sump in.......its just that they are trying to BS people into the notion/idea they need to break up floor w/j hammer around perimeter `n put plastic tile and a lil peastone, and some also try `n sell ya bunch of other shtt like 'EZ Breathe' etc, when all that was needed was a good-sump(S)....know what i mean?
There is a BIG difference with having water coming 'from' bsmt wall, from the cold joint versus....having water coming up-through bsmt floor cracks thus, different remedies....a problem Only under the floor does not require Outside mehtod, a problem with the bsmt walls does not require a sump etc.
ma, water coming up through sump pit `n Not from elsewhere. well, this person who gave ya 2nd solution of another pump....did they check the existing pump ? Just doesnt sound right, so 'IF' this existing pump is ok then sure sounds like you`ll need another to combat tons `O water constantly under the floor ditto builder
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
If I had that much water filling the sump, I would have a second pump, just as back up. Also, I would have them both on emergency backup power.
If a water table were that high, I would have avoided a basement altogether, because the only way to avoid such water problems is to build a boat and sink it under your house.
as to ma`s sump fillin` up, sometimes builders put in a lil pos sump pump so if thats the case w/ma then 'maybe' a better sump would do the trick w/back up.....dunno..ya know
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
Keep in mind that I didn't really have a problem unilt we had rain for eight days straight in my area. The state of MA declared a federal emergancy. Ever since then which was about a month ago My water level in my sump pit has been very high. I have red clay which is not helping the situation as this really acts like a sponge holding the water and now it is winter time no sun no time to dry up the ground. As an example my pit was totaly dry April through Sept of this year.
quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofer: Ch`ster.
as to ma`s sump fillin` up, sometimes builders put in a lil pos sump pump so if thats the case w/ma then 'maybe' a better sump would do the trick w/back up.....dunno..ya know
we deal w/clay probably 3 outta every 4 jobs here in Mich and are well 'in tune' with expansion/contraction of clay. With the amount of rain you guys had much of it eventually is going to wind up along your bsmt walls and under your footing/floor `n in the sump like ya say. Your water line is ok right(leak)?
if you have a larger house then you may indeed need another sump so....if you are worried about the level of water in existing sump and have the cash for a second sump with back-up power source it should certainly help.
sure, do what ya can on outside to try `n divert some 'surface' water away from home. Yes some of these methods will divert water 3,5,10' away from home but on heavier-longer rains water is still going to go into the soil around the house,accumulate,wick `n spread in all directions including back towards your bsmt walls, under driveways/patios...under where some people have raised their grade or mudjacked slabs etc...there is NO Underground bias, NO Underground slope.
i agree quite a bit with this guy except when he says he`d recommend an outside french drain instead of waterproofing the part of-or all of a bsmt wall that has cracks-leaks,is bowing etc. French drains do NOT lessen/stop or Prevent hydrostatic & lateral pressure off a bsmt wall, they do NOT seal the Cracks in the wall where Water enters, thus it will not waterproof the wall, will not stop-prevent mold, termites-insects from entering AND this is one of the MAIN Entryways for Radon gas, his experience is with Building/plumbing, NOT Hands-on Waterproofing over an extended period of time. But i do enjoy the way he shtts on some builders cuz he....Knows many are arrogant-loud mouths who 'think' they know it All. And they HATE it when someone opposes what they 'thought' for years was the correct way to waterproof-backfill
And while i`m at it any inside waterproofing co., inspector,builder,radio hm Imp talk show host, structural engineer etc that believes i`m full of shtt & would like to take the opposite side please do so, i`ve been waiting a looooong time, Quit BS`g the Public....i kept my mouth shut for many years, but the last 2 years i`ve seen,met & listened to waaay too many people getting screwed,lied to etc and its just not right please explain EXACTLY how ANY Inside Method-System STOPS Water from entering through Outside cracks-openings, Please explain how having an Inside method will Stop-Prevent Mold, How Any Inside Method will help Stop-Prevent Radon gas from entering through cracks/openings in basement walls, How an Inside Method will help Stop Termites-insects from entering, How ANY Inside method RELIEVES Hydrostatic & Lateral Pressure that is against the Outside of Basement Walls.
Look...90% of the time when a homeowner has Water coming from the cold joint...where the bottom of bsmt wall and floor meet...it IS because of 'Outside' cracks/openings and NOT from what Inside co`s want ya to believe, a problem Under the Floor!
Buying a home,selling? Crack(s)in Bsmt wall, bowing wall? Please Explain Exactly how raising the grade,extending downspouts,mudjacking concrete slabs,french drains etc will Stop/Prevent/Relieve....water/moisture from entering,mold,radon,termites,hyd & lateral pressure.
Are Hm Inp`s and others telling potential-BUYERS that with a crack or 2 in the basement wall is nothing to worry about or they 'advise to monitor the crack' or that its ok to for SELLER to raise grade/mudjack slab etc and that YOU`LL never have to worry about water entering the crack(s), wont have to worry about mold,radon gas entering etc?
many folks Buying a home with a Finished Basement dont even KNOW what Shape the Basement Walls are in!!! You dont know if there is a crack(s) or wall or 2 is bowing,buckling. Just because someone who has a moisture-meter says their meter isnt picking up any potential problem/leak doesnt mean diddley,can a moisture meter tell ya there is a crack(s) behind drywall/paneling?
Can these Inside companies please explain why it sure seems like they have many more BBB complaints versus Outside contractors,huh? And some of you Outside contractors....hey, dont be a Moron and pinch pennies by backfilling with the same SOIL,whats the matter with you? Maybe if its sand you can get away with it but NOT Clay ya nimrods! The clay is just going to expand `n contract again and probably re-open....the crack! And it will settle and pull down whatever tar-visqueen ya placed on the wall. Thats Not whats best for the crack,the wall....the homeowner and the.....future homeowner, c`mon.
here`s a Vid on carbon fiber http://www.fortressstabilization.com/spot%20rm.html they state it will "Permanently stabilze basement walls" They state "Soil pressure can crack and bow a basement wall"....So, why arent they relieving this soil pressure by taking-digging the soil off the bsmt wall and backfilling with peastone/gravel? Maybe some do, maybe Not.
And since the walls have cracks, what about stopping the WATER from entering? Mold,Radon,some efflorescence...etc
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