Why do you and others keep stating we do 2 jobs a week and make it sound like we `re some pile of trash? Look mfr...we work as weather permits, got that? That might be 1,3,5 times a week...it is dependent upon the weather. Know why azz hole? You ever HAND DIG 5-7-10' deep in muck? Do you understand the bank/hole can cave in just because of freakin rain? Know what its like trying to repair a wet freakin wall(mastic) Mr Dip Stick Builder? No, you dumb azz don`t get much cuz you don`t physically DO the work or don`t care. Pushing 300lb w`barrows over wet/slick plywood, up hill and downhill, easy to someone hurt...you care about any of this really? Pffft
See, builders are BLIND to ALOT....and MANY are ARROGANT as hlll and personally i cannot stand the sobs...lil twinks. Hey Jay, come on over to Det. and we will show you how its done,can ya handle it? 30 years means nutting to him,screw him.
Hey Mr BUILDER JAY......how many stick houses do YOU build every year and, How long have YOU been in business? Better yet Jay and others...post your BBB record, show us what ya have, afraid?
See Jay, you must have yet again missed the other LINKS that have been repeatedly posted, the Landmark and Fairfax county links and i posted an arborist link. THEY tell ya to EITHER, take the tree out OR, REMOVE the ROOTS along/against the wall AND then ya waterproof and backfilll!!! Duh
How is it at all possible for someone like Jay to know/understand, have the expertise on THIS SUBJECT versus the likes of Capizzo,Stremersch,EOF,myself and others? 30+ years of no complaints versus his/their blcchtt and ZERO waterproofing jobs
LOL, he doesn`t "GET IT"...just like many other builders,city inspectors etc.Truth hurts sometimes.
Then, this other TRASH about 2 jobs a wekk, LOL. Hey....Jay and others, you want me to BLLCHHTT homeowners like many other-contractors and tell them they need UNNECESSARY work done on 2,3 or all 4 walls? LOL Hey, we get ALOT ALOT ALOT more work, would have 3,4,5 crews going...just like the Inside knotheads....sheeesssh!
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: Why do you and others keep stating we do 2 jobs a week and make it sound like we `re some pile of trash?
I don't care if you do 10-20-30 jobs a week, the number was arbitrary to the point I was making. In fact, the more jobs you do, the better my point was made - believe it or not I was thinking that 2 jobs a week was indeed a lot for that type of work. No joke.
quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: Know why azz hole?
I just wanted to quote this for when he or anyone else says he doesn't do personal attacks or name calling.
quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: Hey Mr BUILDER JAY......how many stick houses do YOU build every year and, How long have YOU been in business? Better yet Jay and others...post your BBB record, show us what ya have, afraid?
Well the houses we build is irrelevant to this conversation on waterproofing. Do you think I'm dumb enough to post my company name here? Ha ha, I can about imagine the phone would ring with you on the other end, I don't think so. Incidently we have zero BBB complaints.
quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: See Jay, you must have yet again missed the other LINKS that have been repeatedly posted, the Landmark and Fairfax county links and i posted an arborist link. THEY tell ya to EITHER, take the tree out OR, REMOVE the ROOTS along/against the wall AND then ya waterproof and backfilll!!! Duh
Repeatedly is right. The same thing again and again and again. Just goes to show that no one reads all that dribble you post. One or two maybe, but like everyone else I just get bored with it and move on to the next post. I'll have to go look for that arborist link though, I'm assuming they say that just cutting the roots is good enough and will not pose a future threat? Also this arborist obviously must know foundation stresses to be able to know what type of lateral pressures one can stand from tree roots? Your right, I should look that link up.
quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: LOL, he doesn`t "GET IT"...just like many other builders,city inspectors etc.Truth hurts sometimes.
Of course I don't "get it", I've been asking you for god knows how long what "it" was and you still haven't told me. Please for the love of all that is holy "WHAT IS IT?"
quote:
Originally posted by Richard Hetzel:
quote:
Seriously? Half the complaints on this board are from wall/floor joint water intrusion...
Yes, and 99% of those are because water is getting into the wall...maybe 100%.
Really? 99% or 100% of the complaints have block walls? What about the poured concrete walls? What about the cracks in the floor that I asked you about earlier?
General Contractor/Home Builder
Posts: 319 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007
Show me one where water is coming up the cold joint with concrete walls. Show me one where water is coming up through cracks in a properly-constructed floor.
Posts: 2570 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
Yes Jay, what about cracks in basement floors, you/your subs pour em....don`t pour em THIN(or thin in certain areas) and, quit building houses on shtt/wet azz land for pete sakes, holy crap man, builders have been,are and seems they`ll always be a good chunk of the problems people have, they will NOT listen, think they know about everything pfft lol.
And umm, careful OPERATING equipment so dang close to homes/walls, geez! I see over `n over on many sites these guys do not care one bit (or know/understand)the problems/damage they can do to walls. Some need to be much more careful when backfilling against walls and compacting soil along walls,Krsit!
You may not cut corners but quite a few do, oh yes indeed. Even the U S Army Corps link said 80% of all basement floors cored were poured SIGNIFICANTLY LESS than plans called for, hmmm. Quite a few basements walls have little or NO reinforcing steel, wonderful.And Jay, the exterior drain tiles along some footings were placed 1-2' UP from the footing, what the fk is that? lolol
Oh yeah, sheesh...LOLOL....Jay, why do some BUILDERS use black plastic flex perforated drain tile along footings at DEPTHS greater than 4'????? Do i need to tear into those builders dumb az about this? Holy chtt man LOL, thats NOT 'cutting corners'??????? Blcchtt!
Ya know Jay....Yoder Builders has NO complaints either and umm, they clearly UNDERSTAND the solid reasons/use of backing with most-all gravel against basement walls. Hmmm, no complaints and all gravel from footing all the way up to within inches of grade, just like Capizzo,Stremersch,EOF,Downriver,myself and a few others....interesting eh.
"Even more important to keeping a basement dry is the foundation backfill process. We firmly believe a foundation should be backfilled with washed gravel(NOT DIRT) from the basement floor level all the way UP to within 2-3"of the finished grade level outside of the home....drains through gravel down to tiles....this prevents trapped water and saturated soil NEXT to foundation from building up HORIZONTAL hydrostatic pressure AGAINST the WALL.THIS PRESSURE will, UMMM, crack walls,cause leaks and in worst case, collapse the wall inward"
Is Yoder also wrong or, as YOU said about me on backfilling w/all gravel....i have 'questionable practices'...lol. If YOU think and said, i have questionable practices then seems Yoder,EOF,Capizzo.Stremersch etc etc does too, according to the way you think `n assume shtt on this subject.And take it another step, that would mean Shaker heights Bldg dept,Fairfax County VA etc are wrong. By the way, they all say to Waterproof the EXTERIOR wall(s)...hmmm. Or, as you say...slapping tar/patching wall...like its nothing.Yeah, nothing to those who do not 'get it'.
And now you`ll prolly twist that around too to fit your needs. Ya know, ya keep saying you have no interest in this yet, you keep posting. And YOU sir...are the one who started the blcchtt,NOT me, scroll waaay back and read what you wrote, who attacked who first, don`t keep the BS going, own up to it/what you posted.
Your not an expert yet keep pushing nonsense about shtt you said yourself you know little about...and said you don`t care. lolol Make up your mind please.
Show me one where water is coming up the cold joint with concrete walls. Show me one where water is coming up through cracks in a properly-constructed floor.
That's easy. My house. The very reason I came to this board in the beginning. The very first time LWP tore me a new one because I apparently was an inside salesman in disguise. It's not hard to find the post. It's no wonder I have a sour taste in my mouth. As for the properly constructed floor - I'd have to say that a lot of homes 15-20 years old or older probably don't have properly constructed floors. They were probably properly constructed for building practices at the time though. If everything was properly constructed, life would be much easier wouldn't it? But you have to deal with what you have. I'm sure if washing gravel were under all concrete floors, then there would be no water coming up through the cracks - but thats just not realistic.
quote:
Yes Jay, what about cracks in basement floors, you/your subs pour em....don`t pour em THIN(or thin in certain areas) and, quit building houses on shtt/wet azz land for pete sakes, holy crap man, builders have been,are and seems they`ll always be a good chunk of the problems people have, they will NOT listen, think they know about everything pfft lol.
And umm, careful OPERATING equipment so dang close to homes/walls, geez! I see over `n over on many sites these guys do not care one bit (or know/understand)the problems/damage they can do to walls. Some need to be much more careful when backfilling against walls and compacting soil along walls,Krsit!
You may not cut corners but quite a few do, oh yes indeed. Even the U S Army Corps link said 80% of all basement floors cored were poured SIGNIFICANTLY LESS than plans called for, hmmm. Quite a few basements walls have little or NO reinforcing steel, wonderful.And Jay, the exterior drain tiles along some footings were placed 1-2' UP from the footing, what the fk is that? lolol
LWP, I couldn't agree with you more. You are 100% on the mark with this commment. Life would be much better for me if shady contractors were eliminated. Maybe then I could go start a job without the preconcieved notion that since I'm a builder, then I am evil.
quote:
"Even more important to keeping a basement dry is the foundation backfill process. We firmly believe a foundation should be backfilled with washed gravel(NOT DIRT) from the basement floor level all the way UP to within 2-3"of the finished grade level outside of the home....drains through gravel down to tiles....this prevents trapped water and saturated soil NEXT to foundation from building up HORIZONTAL hydrostatic pressure AGAINST the WALL.THIS PRESSURE will, UMMM, crack walls,cause leaks and in worst case, collapse the wall inward"
Ahh but there is a big difference. They are stressing the need for draintile. You put proper draintile down and I'm right there with you laying gravel in that hole. My issue was that you said the draintile was overrated. As in this quote -
quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: If the exterior tiles were truly all that mattered or important as concretemasonry thinks then these homeowners would be leaking at least around the corners where other tiles are still clogged,full of roots.Too much emphasis on stupid exterior drain tiles and little if any thought on waterproofing basement/crawl walls and proper backfilling etc etc
No one disagrees that if there is a leak in the wall, then your method of repair would be the direction to go - that has been said here repeatedly, although you somehow seem to miss it every time.
quote:
And YOU sir...are the one who started the blcchtt,NOT me, scroll waaay back and read what you wrote, who attacked who first, don`t keep the BS going, own up to it/what you posted.
Your kidding right? Wow you are indeed delusional. On page 70 I asked for a clarification on something you said. But like anyone else that questions anything you say, you threw a fit. After your usual ranting and giberish, you finally gave an answer to my question. (Incidently if you had just did that to begin with then none of this conversation would be happening right now). If you scroll back, you will notice that once you finally did post the clarification I asked for, I stopped posting - my question was answered so I had nothing more to say. Then it was YOU who made this comment.
quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: Here`s another Inside System Co...hmmm, wonder what YOU,Steve,Concrete,Jay etc etc etc have to say about this.
That's when this round started again. I replied asking what inside system co had to do with me? So Mark the proof is right in the very posts you are telling me to go back and look at. I don't know why you keep dredging this up. You can go back even further to see that it's not the first time you did it, associating me with inside companies when I have absolutely nothing to do with any inside company. The ironic thing of this whole thing is that I share your opinion of them.
quote:
Your not an expert yet keep pushing nonsense about shtt you said yourself you know little about...and said you don`t care. lolol Make up your mind please
No, I am not an expert - I never claimed to be. All I've done here is question some of the things you said.
By the way, you get all bent out of shape when you reply, calling me this, that and the other thing. Is the name calling necessary? I love a good debate but all the name calling takes the fun out of it.
General Contractor/Home Builder
Posts: 319 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007
Keep in mind that some of the people in the waterproofing battles are from Michigan, Ohio and Pennsylvania and surrounding areas and are familiar with the local problems/geology and many/most of the homes were built to a different level of construction. The readily available materials are not always the best and there usually is an emphasis on low cost of construction from 1940 and later. Because of this the remodeling and grading magnified the mistakes.
I have lived and been involved in construction in all those areas and other and recognize it is what it is and there is a tendancy to go by local experience only. Things are done a little differently in residential construction.
I have a retired friend in Minnesota that built over 8,000 entry level homes without one problem basement, but he decided to not have wet basements and the ideal materials for foundations were readily available at a reasonable extra cost. - All block basements (unreinforced) and dual drain tile. Little extra on the walls - only asphalt or dampproofing (poly on a few).
Posts: 154 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 28 July 2007
you go ahead and look at those pic`s i`ve posted and look at the drain tiles, nuttin wrong with them.
what you apparently missed is that we will change any tile(s) that are screwed up w/pvc or, if tile(s) is only clogged with some dirt then i`ll pop it out, clean out the garbage and reuse it. clay tile, imo is best.its thicker/heavier and has shown over dceades it can hold up to underground forces/weight etc.
and yes indeedy, i have said quite a few times that exterior-drain tiles are overrated, yep, not interior...under the floor.in 30 years i`ve never seen/witnessed ONE house/job that leaked or had any-other problem due to condition of exterior tile. The HO`s have leaked,had mold/mildew/efflorescence/insects entering/cracks/wall bowing in due to OTHER things....all of them.
No Jay, i`m not delusional. Delusional= a false belief or opinion.nope,not on this-subject,no siree. Now i may be a bit nutty for some and could care less,don`t give a shtt.
Say again, if the dang homes were built better there would indeed be many less problems,especially on this-subject....no waterproofing,no gravel backfill and so on.The only thought was/is dumb az exterior drain tiles...overrated!
Codes on this subject are blccchtt, others have had their chance and came up with...drain tiles. LOL Then the inside nitwits 'thought-duh' they had everyones solution, more nonsense.Hey, how about giving Capizzo,EOF,Stremmy,SDW,Downriver,myself etc a chance, maybe the powers that be dunno what they thought they knew, waaay past due to listen to those who know shtt on this subject.
Oh, per yer statement of...i`d be a good politician, lol. Ya know, since i`m not about money....at all, and do my own thinking(kinda like Mr G Carlin) then maybe,just maybe i could be a politician but, one that wouldn`t take a fkg dime, from anyone and anything i know lil if anything about(which is alot), i`d freakin consult the 'experts'....unlike the morons who make the lousy codes on this subject.
Originally posted by JayinMinnesota: [QUOTE]Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: just like i said, you have had nothing to say about any story posted,any other contractor,nothing about those who have 10-20-50 complaints,those who`ve been sued by AG`s and so on. but you sure have jumped on my az and then wonder why.
builders(no not every one of em) are a part of the problem, your a builder and throughout all the posts, the links, still doesn`t get it....go figure.
That's my question, why would I have anything to say about it? Why would I care about 10-20-50 complaints?
You preach on and on how the inside guys are ruining the world but guess what? Some of yourpractices are just as questionable.
The real solution would be to get rid of the tree that is causing the root problem----- You really should be a politician
----------------------------------------- The above from the non expert ----------------------------------------------
'Questionable practices'.....states the non expert. 'Questionable'!!! No problems,Capizzo,EOF,etc etc etc and his 2 cents says questionable. Okie dokie.
LWP, through all this, your going to be surprised on what I'm about to say but the next time I'm in Detroit I'm doing to look you up and buy you a beer. No kidding.
General Contractor/Home Builder
Posts: 319 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007
Well You certainly are one angry little man aren't you, Mr Licensed waterproofer?
I never suggested that walls never need sealed.
I often perform exterior "true waterproofing and restoration systems"; but, apparently you didn't read my post when I explained that.
Also to clarify things; the chapter you recite is a chapter of my web site not my book, it does not even contain a portion of my book the Ultra Dry Basement: a basic guide to understanding and correcting foundation water problems.
My book covers the history of foundation types in the united states , how water affects a building lot, how to channel water away from your house, the basic systems available both interior and exterior, a chapter on exterior excavation and the improvements I made to it, a chapter on interior De-watering and the improvements I have made to the basic technique to make all my jobs service free. It also covers methods of discharge and gutter or beaver systems which I never never recommend using.
I also wrote it over ten years ago and have made many improvements to my systems since.
I will make it shortly available for download and you can then read it and maybe learn something about waterproofing.
I never claimed that roots cannot potentially damage anything ...roots are pernicious and can break-down even stone over time. However root damage can be controlled through effective trimming or tree removal.
Why are you so angry????
Inside systems in some cases are the only options available due to obstructions/additions.
I will tell you a story about a job I recently did for a Mr. Ron Sewyak on state route 20 in Oberlin.
Mr Sewyak had had the walls of his home rebuilt ten years ago using conventional masonry techniques.
They were rebuilt using 12" blocks and type n mortar. A conventional parge coat was applied and tar. New tiles and backfill were added.
Four years later the walls were leaking again!!!
Exasperated the homeowner had Ohio State Waterproofing install their inside outside "waterproofing system" (inside) they hoped their problems were solved.
Well I met Ron a few months ago.
He asked me out because his basement walls were severely bowed bulging and shifted off the first course and out of plumb.
I was able to observe portions of the outside "waterproofing " system and the inside/outside system.
After careful inspection I assessed the real problem----BAD FRAMING!!!!
Thats right it turned out that the first contractor (who did many things poorly) built the walls directly back up to and underneath the existing framing deficiency which caused the wall system to fail in the first place.
A partial sill plate and a lack of cribbing on the gable end walls were behind their problem from the beginning.
After the first winter ten years ago, the new wall began to crack... this opened water ways which made the walls leak.
Ron's second contractor performed an inside system which, while done poorly, also stopped active water puddling on the floor.
Unfortunately it did nothing to stop the structural issue which worsened and worsened until he was forced to call me.
So in a ten year period the walls have been repaired three times!!!!
Can you imagine???
Fortunately, for Ron I fixed them once and for all by first correcting the framing issues and repairing the sill plate; then performing a complete excavation.
Only once the earth was removed completely; all the way down to the bottom of the footer, was I able to push the walls back in line and use my surface bonding structural repair solution.
Then of course I applied three sealants to the wall one damp-proof two of them waterproof.
Then I replaced the drainage system with new thick wall pipe and stone all the way to 12" of grade separated from the top soil with filter fabric!!!!!
So why didn't I fix them from the inside???
Because in his situation it would not work.
I always tell my customers all of their options . Then I tell them what I would do in their shoes.
Regardless of your suppositions, not all homeowners can afford an outside system.... worse... most outside contractors do not know how to install a true WATER-PROOFING system.
So the poor homeowner is left buying a repair that involves excavating the wall and using the same techniques that FAILED ALREADY!!!
Oy veh!!
If you have a true basement need I will happily answer it but stop asserting silly drivel Licensed waterproofer.
Please keep an eye out for the Ultra Dry Basement to be available on my web site soon, for FREE by download.
Recently a copy sold for $189 dollars on amazon.com
The possible reasons for basement wall failures have been listed many times in this forum, by myself and others. Note that the list includes improper or absent bracing of the top of the foundation wall into the floor diaphragm, and it's often omitted on walls which run parallel to the floor joists. So, what you're saying is that two foundation repair "experts" before yourself failed to consider and investigate ALL the possible causes of foundation failure before implementing a "solution". That isn't suprising, but in LW's defense, I'll say that the first step he recommends is to diagnose the cause, so he would not have been likely to make the same mistake.
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2570 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
The 2006 IRC addresses this issue in full force. They are finally realizing that 7' of unbalanced clay against a basement wall is probably going to push on it. Go figure.
General Contractor/Home Builder
Posts: 319 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007
Go figure is right, but this kind of stuff comes into the code when architects, engineers and builders fail to follow good practice, regardless of code requirements. The problem with a building code is that the instant the code sets a minimum, it immmediately becomes a maximum, and many believe that simply following the code will produce a building that performs well and meets the needs of its owners ad/or occupants. Nothing could be further from the truth. A code-minimum building can be a pretty ratty affair, and designers and builders should, and often do, go beyond the code to follow good practices.
Foundation wall design criteria were well-known before they found their way into the code. Designers who were ignorant of them, or failed to follow them, did not perform an adequate service to their clients. The poor builders followed the plans and specifications in good faith. While one could say they should have known, too, the primary fault can and should be laid squarely at the feet of the person who signed and sealed the plans.
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2570 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
http://www.jensenengineers.com/FAQs.htm -Question.."I called several contractors and each one proposed a DIFFERENT REPAIR plan, WHY? -A)"Repair contractors employ ESTIMATORS...using TITLES such as 'CERTIFIED Foundation Inspector'..or..'Foundation Specialist'...Typically these estimators will ONLY PROPOSE the type of repair the company regularly offers IRRESPECTIVE of YOUR situation"
Yeah, without any doubt! Got MILK?
-Question.."My contractor says if I sign up with him he`ll throw in a FREE Engineering report..." -A.......a FREE engineer`s report is no different than a free LUNCH...This APPROACH means the engineer will likely work off the repairs PROPOSED by the ESTIMATOR, simply RUBBER STAMPING this proposal.." LOLOLOL!!
3.2 Lateral Wall Pressure Four SOURCES likely contributed to lateral pressures on BASEMENT WALLS in Amherst: 1.Pressure from SOIL WEIGHT 2.Pressure from SOIL SWELL 3.Hydrostatic pressure (duh, exterior lateral-horizontal hydrostatic pressure) 4.Pressure from FROST
3.2.4 Hydrostatic pressure ....."We observed and homeowners described EVIDENCE that included water spurting,dripping,dampness or EFFLORESCENCE...other HO`s described leakage during rain events, in the crawl space and around WALL ANCHORS.
3.2.6 Summary CLAY rich soils OFTEN present LONG TERM PROBLEMS as BACKFILL MATERIALS....Beyond the obvious...CLAY BACKFILLS require SIGNIFICANTLY stronger basement walls to WITHSTAND horizontal earth pressures
Well duh, NOT many BUILD STRONGER basement WALLS and they do NOT WATERPROOF them and, they CONTINUE to backfill many with the CLAY!!! LOL WHY????????? Anybody home? Talking about the FOUNDATION Walls here, not the freakin kitchen cabinets or wallpaper or carpeting!!! They`ll seemingly NEVER listen,understand.
3.4.2 FOOTING "We speculate nearly ALL BUILDERS prior to 2003 relied on general PRESUMPTIVE values INSTEAD of a geotechnical evalution in the foundation design...DIAZ 1994 states that caution SHOULD be taken when using average values supplied by CODES bevause they ARE SIMPLY...PRESUMPTIVE VALUES....."
3.4.5 BACKFILL "As cited by DIAZ 1994, LATERAL pressure PROBLEMS are EXASPERATED by USING UNSUITABLE Backfill, usually from ON-SITE excavation. NONE of the foundation blueprints prescribed the material to be used for backfill...All backfill SOILS analyzed in this study are classified as being EXPANSIVE, which is generally NOT RECOMMENDED for backfill material"
Yet they STILL continue to backfill w/most or all on on-site soil, wonderful.
3.4.6 See......Anchor RODS
3.4.11.1 Modeling results.."GRANULAR backfills CAN REDUCE Lateral pressures.....TOP WALL SUPPORT is CRITICAL....."
Scroll about 1/2 way down.... "The strength of a basement wall is determined by it`s construction...Improper construction COUPLED with SATURATION of the SOIL is the MOST COMMON CAUSE of BASEMENT Wall FAILURES" http://www.plickandassociates.com/newsletters/Mar06.pdf
"Basement walls are subject to LATERAL Pressures from the WEIGHT of the SOIL piled against the EXTERIOR. MOISTURE in the SOIL INCREASES the WEIGHT acting upon the wall..."
"Failures occur when the FORCES CAUSED by the weight of the soil and/or water exceed the ability of a wall to resist the force..."
"Generally, failures due to excess soil and/or hydrostatic forces cause lateral cracks along MORTAR JOINTS in masonry block, usually near the mid-point of a wall length,half way up the wall. The center of a masonry block wall is often the weakest point...."
"...Inward bulging or bowing of a wall is a sign the EXTERNAL is too great. Bulging/bowing may be accompanied by lateral cracks in the mortar joints.The sudden appearance of water seepage or stains through the wall, if near cracks is a sign saturated conditions exist OUTSIDE a foundation wall"
"INTERIOR finishes, such as paneling or wallboard (or the shtt Inside Co`s place against walls),can HIDE the EFFECTS.."
http://geosurvey.state.co.us/Default.aspx?tabid=392 ...among other facts, -Severity of Problem... SWELLING SOILS are a NATIONWIDE problem.. "Each year, shrinkage or swelling inflict at least $2.3 billion in DAMAGES to houses/building/roads etc-- MORE than TWICE the damage from floods,hurricanes,tornadoes and earthquakes..."
In order to help lessen/relieve exterior lateral soil pressure,roots etc that CAUSE MANY basement walls to crack,leak,bow inward yer gonna need to go outside and remove expanding-contracting soil/roots, and sometimes porch-footings and concrete slabs that also cause some walls to crack,leak,bow in.
