Basement Waterproofing-Foundation Failure etc - Topic Powered by eve community

Posted

add few more tidbits

quote:
Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR:
http://www.jensenengineers.com/FAQs.htm
-Question.."I called several contractors and each one proposed a DIFFERENT REPAIR plan, WHY?
-A)"Repair contractors employ ESTIMATORS...using TITLES such as 'CERTIFIED Foundation Inspector'..or..'Foundation Specialist'...Typically these estimators will ONLY PROPOSE the type of repair the company regularly offers IRRESPECTIVE of YOUR situation"

Yeah, without any doubt! Got MILK?

-Question.."My contractor says if I sign up with him he`ll throw in a FREE Engineering report..."
-A.......a FREE engineer`s report is no different than a free LUNCH...This APPROACH means the engineer will likely work off the repairs PROPOSED by the ESTIMATOR, simply RUBBER STAMPING this proposal.." LOLOLOL!!

PHOTO`S...Lateral Pressure,Amherst NY http://www.lrb.usace.army.mil/missions/amherst/index.html#Photos

See the ATTEMPTED Misdiagnosed INSIDE blcchtt

http://www.lrb.usace.army.mil/AmherstSoilStudy/reports/Amherst-2005-01.pdf
2.4.3 FOUNDATION REPAIRS
"Our limited experience revealed there is occasional ERRONEOUS DIAGNOSIS (ahem) and subsequent implementation of an INAPPROPRIATE remedial measure...the MISAPPLICATION of CARBON FIBER STRIPS....

2.4.3 On the OTHER hand..."We also observed reputable ENGINEERS` DESIGN SOLUTIONS that did NOT alleviate the settlement and/or Lateral Pressure Problems"

http://www.amherst.ny.us/pdf/building/soilsstudy/TOASFS_section3.pdf

3.2 Lateral Wall Pressure
Four SOURCES likely contributed to lateral pressures on BASEMENT WALLS in Amherst:
1.Pressure from SOIL WEIGHT
2.Pressure from SOIL SWELL
3.Hydrostatic pressure (duh, exterior lateral-horizontal hydrostatic pressure)
4.Pressure from FROST

3.2.4 Hydrostatic pressure
....."We observed and homeowners described EVIDENCE that included water spurting,dripping,dampness or EFFLORESCENCE...other HO`s described leakage during rain events, in the crawl space and around WALL ANCHORS.

3.2.6 Summary
CLAY rich soils OFTEN present LONG TERM PROBLEMS as BACKFILL MATERIALS....Beyond the obvious...CLAY BACKFILLS require SIGNIFICANTLY stronger basement walls to WITHSTAND horizontal earth pressures

Well duh, NOT many BUILD STRONGER basement WALLS and they do NOT WATERPROOF them and, they CONTINUE to backfill many with the CLAY!!! LOL
WHY????????? Anybody home? Talking about the FOUNDATION Walls here, not the freakin kitchen cabinets or wallpaper or carpeting!!!
They`ll seemingly NEVER listen,understand.

3.4.2 FOOTING
"We speculate nearly ALL BUILDERS prior to 2003 relied on general PRESUMPTIVE values INSTEAD of a geotechnical evalution in the foundation design...DIAZ 1994 states that caution SHOULD be taken when using average values supplied by CODES bevause they ARE SIMPLY...PRESUMPTIVE VALUES....."

3.4.5 BACKFILL
"As cited by DIAZ 1994, LATERAL pressure PROBLEMS are EXASPERATED by USING UNSUITABLE Backfill, usually from ON-SITE excavation. NONE of the foundation blueprints prescribed the material to be used for backfill...All backfill SOILS analyzed in this study are classified as being EXPANSIVE, which is generally NOT RECOMMENDED for backfill material"

Yet they STILL continue to backfill w/most or all on on-site soil, wonderful.

3.4.6 See......Anchor RODS

3.4.11.1 Modeling results.."GRANULAR backfills CAN REDUCE Lateral pressures.....TOP WALL SUPPORT is CRITICAL....."

Scroll about 1/2 way down....
"The strength of a basement wall is determined by it`s construction...Improper construction COUPLED with SATURATION of the SOIL is the MOST COMMON CAUSE of BASEMENT Wall FAILURES" http://www.plickandassociates.com/newsletters/Mar06.pdf

"Basement walls are subject to LATERAL Pressures from the WEIGHT of the SOIL piled against the EXTERIOR. MOISTURE in the SOIL INCREASES the WEIGHT acting upon the wall..."

"Failures occur when the FORCES CAUSED by the weight of the soil and/or water exceed the ability of a wall to resist the force..."

"Generally, failures due to excess soil and/or hydrostatic forces cause lateral cracks along MORTAR JOINTS in masonry block, usually near the mid-point of a wall length,half way up the wall. The center of a masonry block wall is often the weakest point...."

"...Inward bulging or bowing of a wall is a sign the EXTERNAL is too great. Bulging/bowing may be accompanied by lateral cracks in the mortar joints.The sudden appearance of water seepage or stains through the wall, if near cracks is a sign saturated conditions exist OUTSIDE a foundation wall"

"INTERIOR finishes, such as paneling or wallboard (or the shtt Inside Co`s place against walls),can HIDE the EFFECTS.."

http://geosurvey.state.co.us/Default.aspx?tabid=392 ...among other facts,
-Severity of Problem... SWELLING SOILS are a NATIONWIDE problem..
"Each year, shrinkage or swelling inflict at least $2.3 billion in DAMAGES to houses/building/roads etc-- MORE than TWICE the damage from floods,hurricanes,tornadoes and earthquakes..."

In order to help lessen/relieve exterior lateral soil pressure,roots etc that CAUSE MANY basement walls to crack,leak,bow inward yer gonna need to go outside and remove expanding-contracting soil/roots, and sometimes porch-footings and concrete slabs that also cause some walls to crack,leak,bow in.

6th paragraph http://dwightyoderbuilders.com/concrete.cfm

Scroll down to... BASEMENT Walls, CAUSE `n RESOLUTION http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/DPWES/publications/marineclay.htm#2

....'Its called hydrostatic pressure and its because WET CLAY will keep expanding when it rains' http://www.riverwatchonline.org/news/winnipeg_press/07_09_05.html

-Cement BLOCK Foundations http://www.newsweb.ca/2006/March_16/cement_foundations.html

http://www.e-o-f.com/foundation.html#SCAMS
1) damproofing is NOT waterproofing
2) drain clad(reddish-yellowish fiberglassboards) is NOT waterproofing
3) system platon (heavy black plastic mats w/bumps on one side) is NOT waterproofing

...following.....FRAUDS
4) Water CONTROL is NOT waterproofing
5) a sub drain system is NOT waterproofing
6) bentonite injection is NOT waterproofing
7) pressure relief system is NOT waterproofing

Tree ROOTS can certainly CAUSE CRACKS,leaks http://www.torontosun.com/News/Columnists/Levy_Sue-Ann/2008/01/24/4790823.php "When they discovered water in basement laundry room they tore off drywall and found one of the tree`s ROOTS....had PENETRATED the foundation..."

Here`s a fat daddy ROOT that CAUSED corner cracks,leaks. Its ummm, on the OUTSIDE, needs to be removed....INSIDE SYSTEMS do NOT remove any of the chtt nor do they repair/waterproof the EXTERIOR cracks...SHEESH K!!! Incompetent Fools! http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2348288...1847456/t_=122238283
ROOT...PICS 8,9

http://www.landmarksociety.org/section.html?id=1&uid=1&pageId=7
No, i don`t agree w/every single word but are certainly right on the money here.....scroll down to...
-TREES and Your FOUNDATION .."Strong foundation are SOMETIMES DAMAGED by small roots that ENTERED tiny CRACKS, then GREW and expanded the crack.LARGE ROOTS can PUSH bulges into the foundation wall. EXCAVATE problem tree ROOTS, OR remove the entire tree before making repairs,repointing"

http://www.wes.army.mil/REMR/pdf/cs/mr-9-5.pdf
PG 1... 'NO TEXT can TEACH the SKILLS NECESSARY to achieve QUALITY masonry repointing, is a skill that MUST be learned from EXPERIENCE'

Yeah, thats right...and so the freak-too is correctly diagnosing basement cracks,leaks and REPAIRING-WATERPROOFING them.So GURU, my experience and 2 cents would tell people to NOT read yer book unless they want MORE BS....got that?
Back to last link....
-When is Repointing needed?
....'The MORTAR provides a number of qualities to masonry....provides the STRENGTH that HOLDS brick,stone or BLOCK TOGETHER,provides a water-resistant barrier that excludes MOISTURE and other damaging agents from ENTERING the structure'

hello? ding ding ding. What about cracks,open joints BETWEEN exterior blocks,walls? Ya ding bat incompetent inside gurus....lol, sheesh!
NAH, don`t repair/waterproof exterior cracks etc, just leave them OPEN eh! Further DETERIORATION of the joints,blocks is A OK w/you huh?

'DETERIORATION of the mortar is the main reason for undertaking repointing.All building materials will deteriorate with time and EXPOSURE to the elements. Freezing and thawing...can CAUSE mortar to deteriorate...Expansion and contraction can exceeed mortar capabilities and cause crushing or debonding at masonry interface...'

'...Signs of deterioration: cracks in mortar,loose or missing mortar,weak or crumbly mortar,GAPS BETWEEN mortar and masonry,loose bricks or DAMP SPOTS on SURFACE...all deterioration signs that can lead to FURTHER deterioration...' And NO INSIDE DRAIN TILE or BASEBOARD,DEWATERING SYSTEM repairs/waterproofs ANY exterior cracks,gaps,problems.

-UNDERSTANDING Common Building DEFECTS http://www.hbp.usm.my/conservation/DilapidationSurvey.htm
-Fungus stain and harmful growth....dirt penetrates small openings in walls and mortar joints...roots can go deep into existing holes causing further cracks and water-penetration
-Erosion of mortar joints
...Causes of mortar joint erosion include saly crystallization,scouring action of winds,disintegration of wall growing plants,water penetration resulting in dampness
-CRACKING of WALLS
...common causes of leaning walls include a spreading roof forcing weight down towards walls,sagging due to SOIL movement,weak foundations due to presence of dampness,shrinkable CLAY soil or decayed building materails....
-Dampness PENETRATION THROUGH WALLS
Dampness penetration through walls can be a serious matter....not only does it DETERIORATE building structures....dampness may also enter a building from the GROUND THROUGH CRACKS or mortar joints in the FOUNDATION WALLS

http://www.stocorp.com/pr.nsf/5d5efb09f77373618525666a0...06d00ea?OpenDocument --Federal Response..research physicist..."I would say 90 percent of the moisture problems in houses are related to moisture coming in from the(AHEM!!).. OUTSIDE"

And TERMITES...lolol, where do they,can they enter? They cause around 5-6 BILLION dollars of damage every year HEY....will installing any INSIDE SYSTEM stop/prevent termites and other insects from entering YOUR HOME? NO WAY BABY!
http://www.utoronto.ca/forest/termite/tips8.htm

Posts: 492 | Registered: 10 June 2007

Ignored post by LicensedWaterproofR posted

Posted

Careful....when adding soil,concrete etc along/against the house

http://www.helium.com/items/1022235-planning-for-a-rasied-patio

"Severe damage can be caused if a raised patio is installed along a foundation wall..."

"Raised patios using paver blocks are supported on the soil that is placed on top of existing ground(grade) along the foundation wall. This additional soil can cause large increase in lateral pressure that can severly damage the wall"

"Lateral pressure from soil 'backfill'against a foundation wall varies with the square of the backfill height.THEREFORE, even what may be considered relatively small increases in backfill can cause LARGE increases in lateral pressure AGAINST the wall. Additional WEIGHT (of anything) placed on top of soil backfill causes additional lateral pressure against the foundation wall"

"Damage to foundation walls due to increased lateral soil pressure is most frequent with block walls...excessive lateral soil pressure generally causes long horizontal cracks in mortar joints....short vertical and horizontal step-cracks are also seen.."

Seen too often contractors/homeowners pour 4" of concrete on TOP of existing concrete(patio-driveway)...careful w/that chtt.

Adding SOIL? ...old link, you`ll have to pay fer it now. http://www.judiciary.state.nj.us/opinions/a2078-05.pdf

"...while water accumulation in the basement reduced drastically since the swale was filled with soil, the WEIGHT of the fill soil, when wet, CAUSED the foundation wall to buckle...engineer found that the basement wall bowed inward and blocks in the wall were cracked"

This message has been edited. Last edited by: LicensedWaterproofR,

Posts: 492 | Registered: 10 June 2007

Ignored post by LicensedWaterproofR posted

concretemasonry

Posted

Just goes to show that granular backfil and draintile are necessary to remove the water that causes the pressure and ultimate failure of the wall or waterproofing systems. Saturated granular backfill will always exert less pressure the other types of backfill and because it is granular and weel drained the pressure is releived more quickly, rather that exerting the pressure for years.

Posts: 154 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 28 July 2007

Ignored post by concretemasonry posted

Posted

quote:
Originally posted by concretemasonry:
Nobody gets beat or wins. It is just a question of what people say and how helpful they are with contructive suggestions made with an open mind to the problems and questions posted.

constructive suggestions? Gonna have to be fact based,actual-honest info in order to be HELPFUL to homeowners w/leaky basements.Posting a buncha shtt having little if any experience on the-subject will hardly be helpful to any homeowner. If anything it`ll be more confusing for pete sake.

http://www.wes.army.mil/REMR/pdf/cs/mr-9-5.pdf
This is no intentional knock but matter of fact..

Believe it or not, to get experienced/real good at some shtt/trades requires time...hands-on experience,seeing and doing shtt over `n over `n over again, as this link says about tuckpointing, 'NO TEXT can teach the skills necessary to achieve quality repointing....is a skill that MUST be learned from experience'

Hands on EXPERIENCE comes from...doing the work, doing the job.

Bet the Inside knotheads will profess they offer constructive suggestions with an open mind...pfffft!
Here some more of their incompetent suggestions and unnecessary installation of an inside system which did NOT stop/prevent further water from entering exterior cracks in block walls and so, more mold/mildew/efflorescence grows on walls inside basement and cracks that are visible inside have widened.Took many more pics but suckers didn`t come out. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2387613...2238283/t_=122238283

First 6 pics...
You see the sump pump, that tells anyone who knows waterdiverting co`s...who installed this unnecessary system.
3 of the 4 walls have exterior cracks, and its through these cracks that water first enters into the hollow blocks `n causes most of the efflorescence,mold/mildew on walls
Pic 2, the west wall, they put sheeting against basement wall lol. All this does is hide/conceal the real condition of the wall, it does not stop/prevent water from entering.
Pic 6, broke up floor and put in inside track shtt, big g dang deal. It cannot stop/prevent what is going on/actual problems on the outside.
Next house...
g dang flash, took many more pics.
Pic 8... some of the 40 or so open,leaky rod holes.
3 of the basement walls have 6 vertical cracks
Pic 11 openings around and under side door, these are just as important as any other crack,rod hole etc...as to water `n insects entering the basement.
Bee hive just inside side door, bees and wasps flying around, lil sobs. Should be able to see 5-6 dead ones on side door step.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: LicensedWaterproofR,

Posts: 492 | Registered: 10 June 2007

Ignored post by LicensedWaterproofR posted

Posted

-Video from B Dry, How Your Foundation Wall Acts Like a Sponge http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-40700516729431...CGSPqiEoPi4gKGvLmsAQ

Yes, water can `n does enter block walls from the outside THROUGH cracks,loose-cracked-thin parging etc and SOMETIMES the water that got into the blocks does not all out onto the basement floor,at-along the wall-floor joint or lowest blocks, sometimes x-amount of water will stay inside SOME of the blocks.

Usually water will accumulate/stay inside the LOWEST BLOCKS,1st course up from floor, IF it does at all.

Now, THEY say water can rob your foundation wall of its integrity...right? Water can and so too does lateral SOIL pressure,tree roots,porch-footings `n concrete slabs etc.

Water entering through cracks etc from the outside can WEAKEN the mortar joints between the blocks, just like water can screw up/weaken mortar joints `n BRICKS above-ground.

SO...what do these INSIDE Co`s/Systems do to stop-prevent water from entering hollow block walls which would stop-prevent FURTHER DETERIORATION??? NOTHING. lol, thats right. When they install a drain tile or baseboard system,with or without a sump pump, it cannot stop-prevent water from entering the carcks,loose-cracked parging etc on the OUTSIDE. Obviously then, they also do not remove/relieve soil pressure,roots etc that is against the outside of the wall.

Why ya think they never seem to wanna discuss these OTHER exterior pressures that cause cracks,leaks,bowed wall? Yeah, uh huh.

Not worried about water penetration through joints,cracks,not worried about efflorescence,mold etc? http://www.aggregateresearch.com/forum/viewmessage.aspx?AreaID=82&MID=2360

"Water infiltrates the blocks and dissolves minerals...as water evaporates from the surface of the unit the mineral deposits are left behind, thus efflorescence crystals can grow. Although generally a visual problem,if the efflorescence crystals grow INSIDE the surface of the unit, it can cause SPALLING."

"The BEST way to prevent the problem is to prevent water from infiltrating the blocks....whenever we see this problem, there is usually a leak somewhere that allows water to ENTER the BLOCK WALL....once the SOURCE of the WATER-infiltration has been LOCATED and STOPPED (not diverted with an inside system!), the walls can be cleaned..."

Question.....do Inside Systems stop-prevent water from entering exterior cracks,loose-cracked parging etc? No, never have `n never will...YET, some inside-VIDEOS wanna talk about the structural integrity of basement walls and then turn around and install an inside-system for ya! lol Okie dokie.

REGARDLESS of what they do on the INSIDE, water is still entering through the wall from the outside, as in these pic`s.Yeah, they`ll drain the lower blocks BUT they`ll leave holes OPEN, shtt. We drain the lower blocks too then seal holes w/hydraulic cement, duh! Can you say Radon? http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2355100...1847456/t_=122238283

See where water enters hollow blocks from the outside, see efflorescence,mildw-mold,paint peeling on lower blocks INSIDE.
More pics...the crap on inside walls is from EXTERIOR cracks/problems,period. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2349076...1847456/t_=122238283

-Efflorescence, Cause and Control http://www.masonryinstitute.org/pdf/612.pdf
"Prevent any water from penetrating into the masonry wall"......"Salt laden SOILS could be backfilled against a wall where the salts could be absorbed and cause efflorescence"

http://www.askthebuilder.com/499_Efflorescence_on_Masonry.shtml

"To stop efflorescence you must stop all water from entering masonry surfaces....the retaining wall that is backfilled with dirt should have been treated with a waterproofing compound that would have stopped water infiltration into the wall"

-Efflorescence Study, U S Army Corps Eng`s
http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA280220

http://www.buildingdiagnostics.com/articles/masonry.html

"The ability of a masonry wall to withstand deterioration is a function of the interaction of the original design, the care in construction and the prompt and proper attention to water-entry problems. Water in the wall system usually is first noticed when it enters the interior wall and causes the wallcovering to stain,or paint to peel..."

"Even when it is the wall that is leaking, the porosity of the masonry material is usually not the cause. Water will find it`s way in.....usually open mortar joints or cracks..."

http://www.vobb.com/Two-most-important-facts.htm

2. the weakest part of the wall is the mortar joint.
1974 C Haynes,J Simons...'a concrete block wall laid in mortar must be waterproofed by the application of a sealing compound'. <---This is NOT what many inside knotheads tell homeowners

Not on the inside. In case inside gurus haven`t noticed, it rains outside,hollow block walls often have cracks on the outside,there are joints between the blocks...hello?

Inside guys http://www.marylandwaterproofing.com/faq.html

Q) Is it necessary to excavate the outside?
Their answer lol) We strongly recommend against it...etc garabge. Lets see,are they 'Maryalnd waterproofing' or 'Affordable waterproofing'...sheesh. You`d think one name would be good enough

Mannequin/Kim Cattrall,Do you dream about me <--around the 2:40-3:00 mark...ha!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agxwOaTVnCY&feature=related

This message has been edited. Last edited by: LicensedWaterproofR,

Posts: 492 | Registered: 10 June 2007

Ignored post by LicensedWaterproofR posted

Posted

2 houses, first has block walls, 2nd has poured walls....got milk? http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2388627...1847456/t_=122238283

For Sale

Pics 2,3,4,5 Side wall, sill is cracked and so is basement wall,see top of crack under basement window.

Pics 5,6 the INSIDE of pics 2-5, STEP-crack

Pic 12 back wall, HO gets water at-along wall-floor joint and says some blocks get damp,EFFLORESCENCE on wall, under window, from the floor up to window.

8-11 the outside of pic 12, several problems. Openings around basement window,openings around 1st floor window and open mortar joints.
16 nice lil hive....come on IN,there`s room for everybody!
17,18 if ya have gutters...clean em please,sheesh.

-Next house
19,20 how about some MOLD fer ya, its on poured wall BEHIND the drywall, also growing on insulation,uh huh.

There is a diagonal crack in this area and open mortar joints just above wall/mold.The crack was previously injected....nobody said shtt to this HO when they bought house,no paperwork,no warranty on injection. Where is the supposed-Lifetime Guarantee???

21,22 another crack, vertical. Was also injected and was patched w/cement and then painted over

23 open-leaky rod hole, there are others. Wonderful CODES, just great. Pfftt. Put the doughnuts and coffee down and forget-about yer round table discussions and change the dang codes will ya please!

24 outside of pics 21-23. Ya may see the lil-dab of thin tar on 'surface' of wall/rod hole....Not IN IT, just on the surface.
Also one course of unprotected bricks and mortar joints BELOW grade/ground-level...why?

Inside guru`s won`t take drywall/paneling/insualtion OFF to help detect/diagnose any-all possibilties. If ya don`t take stuff off you won`t find/repair leaky rod holes,won`t see some of the cracks,won`t SEE the MOLD!! Duh! It truly is UN-BE-LIEVABLE and incompetent to allow this kinda crap to continue. Putting an inside-system in will NOT stop/prevent water from entering THROUGH rod holes,cracks,open mortar joints etc, won`t stop/prevent mold ya nimrods.

Jeff Dunham with Peanut and Jose Jalapeno....on a stiiick! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47DT41m86N4

Posts: 492 | Registered: 10 June 2007

Ignored post by LicensedWaterproofR posted

concretemasonry

Posted

What does that all mean to what problem someone might have now?

****

Posts: 154 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 28 July 2007

Ignored post by concretemasonry posted

Posted

quote:
Originally posted by concretemasonry:
What does that all mean to what problem someone might have now?

For those who have a problem/leak now,it means quite a few things...some include,

-Should not trust every Tom,Dck `n Harry nor their sometimes catchy lil advertising ads `n false claims

-it means homeowners need to FIRST find-locate where the water is actually entering...not so much where it winds-up on basement floor.This in part means, just because someone has water at the wall-floor joint it does NOT automatically mean they have some sort of problem under the floor as many inside salepeople try `n BS them about.This is NO LIE,TIRED of THIS blchhht.Don`t believe me then call Downriver Waterpf`g,Capizzo,EOF etc.

- it means just because someone does not see or smell MOLD in basement, it doesn`t mean mold isn`t growing on basement wall,on insulation,on drywall...pics 19,20

- it means just because a house/basement was inspected and a seller puts down on disclosure statement there are no leaks and told everything was A-ok, that cracks and leaky rod holes,bowed wall etc aren`t BEHIND drywall.Sometimes means what you can`t see may can COST you.

- it means inside salespeople/owners who do not explore where the water is entering/coming from and do not tell homeowners its in HO`s interest to take some drywall down to see if there is a crack,leaky rod holes etc are at least in part incompetent and/or fraudulent and are only selling a $7,000-$17,000 inside system based on... they see water on the floor,at-along floor-wall joint.Water that is seen at floor-wall joint does NOT describe,define most homeowners water-entry-problems, nor should it guide anyone to a supposed inside system as the remedy to stop/prevent water from entering.

IT MEANS....OFTEN....behind drywall/paneling there will be a crack where the water is actually entering or, sometimes a HO will ONLY have 1-2 open-leaky rod holes behind drywall, the rod holes or a crack is all they need to fix, it is where water is FIRST entering and they do NOT need ANY drain tile or baseboard system.Means the actual problem can OFTEN be repaired correctly for $25...per rod hole or around $950 for waterproofing the crack, they did NOT need to spend $7,000/10,000++ for inside system is what it means...ya follow?

-it means builders,subs,developers,codes are not doing what is often necessary at the onset,when house is built, to keep water out of the stupid basement,not doing what is often necessary and in best interest of homeowners to reduce lateral soil pressure(backfill w/gravel)...and so on and so on....

It means....the same shtt a few of us have been stating over `n over,throughout many posts.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: LicensedWaterproofR,

Posts: 492 | Registered: 10 June 2007

Ignored post by LicensedWaterproofR posted

JG7

Posted

I am doing some landscaping near the foundation of my house that required me to dig down 2-3 feet, and I figured that while I had this area exposed, I may as well seal some of the cracks in the mortar joints of the exterior block wall. I was hoping to do it myself, what should I use?

Posts: 14 | Location: Wisconsin | Registered: 08 June 2008

Ignored post by JG7 posted

concretemasonry

Posted

JG7 -

I assume you do not have a water problem, so the foundation must be performing well.

Since you have the area open, I would be good to improve the condition of what is there and improve it if possible.

Open up the existing joints a bit, roughen the sides and clean them out. Pack the joints (do not coat the wall) with hydraulic cement. This can be applied if the joint is clean and moisture is not a problem.

After the hydraulic cent has set for a day or two, cost the surface with a bituminous material similar to what is probably there and cover with heavy poly (6-10 mil). Backfill with soil that will drain away from the house.

As long as you are there, it is worth the effort to bring the area up to better condition than the old and it does not cost much.

Posts: 154 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 28 July 2007

Ignored post by concretemasonry posted

JG7

Posted

Are these material that a big box store like Home Depot would have or would I have to find a specialty supplier?

Posts: 14 | Location: Wisconsin | Registered: 08 June 2008

Ignored post by JG7 posted

Posted

Quikrete hydraulic cement, yes,usually found at HD etc. http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/HydraulicWaterStopCementPro.asp

'Some'mastics/coatings...Best to use the thickest, not the thin-watery-damproof stuff.

http://www.karnakcorp.com/pro_rp_ar.html

http://www.dewittproducts.com/

http://www.alconvc.com/capsystems.htm

http://www.henry.com/

For others...have EFFLORESCENCE on basement wall? Mold on wall behind drywall? http://www.aggregateresearch.com/forum/viewmessage.aspx?AreaID=82&MID=2360

"Water infiltrates the blocks....usually a visual problem, if the efflorescence crystals grow INSIDE the surface of the unit, it can CAUSE spalling"

"The BEST way to prevent this problem is to PREVENT WATER from infiltrating the block....Whenever we see this problem, there is usually a LEAK somewhere that ALLOWS WATER to ENTER the block wall...."

"Once the SOURCE of the water infiltration has been LOCATED and STOPPED, the walls can be cleaned..."

-Efflorescence, cause and control
http://www.masonryinstitute.org/pdf/612.pdf
"Prevent any water from penetrating into the masonry wall"
"Salt laden SOILS could be backfilled against a wall where the salts could be absorbed and cause efflorescence"

Yeah, soils backfilled against walls that were not waterproofed when built.

Efflorescence etc on inside wall, pics 15-17 http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2355100...1847456/t_=122238283

Effflorescence,mold etc on inside walls http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2349076...1847456/t_=122238283

Mold http://abcnews.go.com/WNT/Story?id=131638&page=3

"Experts agree on one thing: if you`ve got mold you need to get rid of it. More IMPORTANTLY, you need to ELIMINATE the CAUSE"

"Find the moisture, elimintae the moisture,clean up the mold"

Pg 6 "It is recommended the inspection and remediation NOT be done by the SAME person/firm"

Pg 7 "Remember: Just cleaning up the mold is not enough. You MUST FIND the moisture SOURCE and ELIMINATE it"

Don`t see anything where anyone says 'DIVERT incoming water'.. or 'it`s ok to allow water to come through wall'...or 'it`s ok to allow water vapor through wall or UP from basement floor area'.

Pics 19,20 Mold BEHIND drywall, on poured wall and on insulation http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2388627...1847456/t_=122238283

Mold on drywall, pics 1-4 Inside system was installed, it did NOT stop/prevent water from entering through exterior cracks in block wall and also allows the water and/or water VAPOR along perimeter floor to cause problems,thats right. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2388587...1847456/t_=122238283

Inside drain tile and baseboard systems do NOT seal/repair/waterproof EXTERIOR cracks `n other pathways into a house/basement...sheesh!
Termites cause around 5-6 Billion dollars of damage every year, how do/can they ENTER? http://www.utoronto.ca/forest/termite/tips8.htm

Residential,Structural `n community Pests... Dept. of Entomology North Carolina http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/termites/index.htm

-Why not DIY?
...."simply spraying swarmers or the surface of ACCESSIBLE infested wood kills the termites that you SEE at that time....if you see termites in one area, don`t assume that it`s the ONLY infested area....Also, simply spraying the SOIL SURFACE and/or exterior foundation wall is NOT going to stop a termite infestation BELOW GROUND and possibly entering your home from BELOW ground"

This message has been edited. Last edited by: LicensedWaterproofR,

Posts: 492 | Registered: 10 June 2007

Ignored post by LicensedWaterproofR posted

Basement Waterproofing Guru

Posted

quote:
Originally posted by JG7:
Are these material that a big box store like Home Depot would have or would I have to find a specialty supplier?

Bituminous coatings are NOT Water proof. The best two wall sealants I know of are either a flashing grade elastomeric acryllic latex resin or a vulcanic rubber. Both work ideally well. Both out-perform any asphalt or bituminous based damp-proof grade coating.

Posts: 5 | Registered: 14 July 2008

Ignored post by Basement Waterproofing Guru posted

JG7

Posted

Is about $190 per foot reasonable for an exterior excavation and waterproofing using good techniques based on what I have read on this message board? Basement is 7 feet deep, in an area with heavy clay soil. There is one wall of 30 feet and another small area on a different wall of 10 feet. I live in an area where the houses are close together so there is not a lot of room to work. Thanks.

Posts: 14 | Location: Wisconsin | Registered: 08 June 2008

Ignored post by JG7 posted