Man...gotta say the rain we got sure as chtt showed MANY HO`s who had injections done to cracks in poured walls do not last and...these nimrods who talk people into it don`t seem to be around when crack re-leaks. lol They sure disappear pretty dang quick. Yeah right, 'injections have Lifetime Guarantee'...blcccht/nonsense.
HO in Clarkston couldn`t/wouldn`t wait for us so they hired some dumb chtt Excavating company who charged them a boat-load to dig out 1 wall but ONLY dug 18" DEEP! Un-be-lievable...and appraently they told HO all they needed was some drain tile laid along the exterior of wall w/a few inches of gravel...HO called me back yesterday,still leaks-same area inside.
Young couple in GPW had 3 estimates from 3 Inside dorks, ALL 3 told couple their house is settling and need PIERS and an inside system....the est`s were between $40,000 and $60,000! lolol Thats FORTY--SIXTY THOUSAND DOLLARS! UN-be-lievable. And....the house is NOT NOT NOT settling. Can you say... FRAUD? One of them SDW advertises on TV just about every single day....and you know who that is. lol
Pic 3 new garage and HO getting new driveway.Hired a contractor to pour the pretty new driveway but nothing was discussed about those roots. Umm, ya may wanna talk about that a lil bit.
4-11 roots, sometimes they will grow right against a basement wall and sometimes they won`t.Sometimes they cause damage (crack(s) or possible cause wall to bow in,subsequent leaks) and sometimes they don`t...just like soil pressure,just like a porch footing that could lean against a basement wall.
12,13,14 exterior DRAIN TILE, over 100 years old, nothing wrong w/them,nada/zip....as usual.
15-18 cracks in parging/wall and some open joints. These allow WATER to ENTER the blocks,it`ll often FIRST ENTER THROUGH these types of exterior openings and then it`ll stay inside the hollow blocks as it then falls through the lower blocks until it most-often comes out onto floor, at-along the wall-floor joint/cold joint/cove,call it whatever the crap ya like....got milk? --NOTICE, this wall WAS PARGED.
Pics 2,3 railroad ties, nice lil snack fer TERMITES 5-8 more roots
9 basement windows are 'part' of the problem...on both sides.
11,12 Mr Builder/sub backfilled 3 different areas along wall w/quite a bit of crap...bricks `n other trash.Sometimes we`ll dig out a wall,part of wall and there will be ALL bricks/blocks and even all concrete(broken pieces) from footing up to within several inches of grade.
13 NOTICE-- this wall was NOT PARGED
14-17 crack and OPEN mortar joints
18,19 exterior drain tiles
20 done, any damage to landscape...HUH?
May we ask the brighest stars out there.....HOW will any INSIDE SYSTEM stop water from entering-through exterior cracks/loose-cracked parging or open mortar joints...huh? Not worried about water passing through cracks/joints that can cause FURTHER deterioration/weakening of mortar joints?
And umm,how will any Inside System remove/lessen exterior soil pressure/weight or any roots etc that may be growing against the stupid wall which cause many cracks,cause cracks to widen or quite possibly a wall to bow in, huh?
What about termites,centipedes,ants etc entering the SAME exterior openings? No thought on this chtt either eh? --Foundation Cracks Provide Hidden Entry Points For Termites http://www.utoronto.ca/forest/termite/tips8.htm
3rd para... 'homes w/flat roofs or chronic leaks are sometimes at risk because enough moisture is retained within the structure to allow termites to become established.The constant moisture allows the termite colony to survive with no connections to the soil.In such cases the structural moisture problems may be as damaging to the home as the termite activity' http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/entomology/444-501/444-501.html
Say this again too, raising the grade or extending the downspout-extensions does NOT/did NOT...first,diagnose or determine anyone`s actual problem/leak. This kinda CRAP is wishful thinking, thats all it is. And then, it does NOT repair/waterproof a crack, does not repair/tuckpoint open mortar joints above ground,doesn`t replace possible need for new bsmt windows, does not S N A K E,free a possible blockage between house `n street.
But go ahead and raise that grade all ya like, raise it up over the side door, i don`t give a crap, its your house When some say/think they solved leaky basement by adding soil etc, a few of us know they didn`t fix squat
Got milk....i mean efflorescence? http://www.aggregateresearch.com/forum/viewmessage.aspx?AreaID=82&MID=2360 'Water infiltrates the blocks........IF the efflorescence crystals grow inside the surface of the unit, it can cause spalling........the BEST way to PREVENT this problem is to PREVENT water from infiltrating the blocks.......whenever we see this problem, there is usually a leak somewhere that allows water to ENTER the block wall.......once the SOURCE of the WATER INFILTRATION has been LOCATED and STOPPED, the walls can be cleaned...
Lloyd `n Harry... 'you fellas been doing a bit of boozin` have ya? Sukkin back on Granpas old cough medicine? Gimmie that booze ya little pumpkin-pie-haircutted-freak' (Lloyd spills pz on Harry)..... TIC TAC Sir??? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=io30s7-5VaQ
Was out in Clarkston last week, Ran the hose, got water, dug down a foot, found the crack, Everdry showed up while I was writing up estimate, finished his estimate in 5 minutes and left! I invited HO to other jobsite we were working at in Clarkston that day (digging out a fench drain that didn't work) We were called because some joker is running around town with a proposal sheet with my name, website and his cell number. HO thought I sold him french drain ($1100 he paid) to fix his basement. I explained when he called I never have sold a french drain on a basement in my life. Cost him another $3400 to dig it out right, undermine his footing and put in a sump pump. Anyway so original HO comes by a said we had the job because we were the only company, of 5 they called, who ran the hose. Water was coming in below stairway, 3 feet under the house, over a 3 foot poured wall (multi level house). Inside on Co's--Hydrostatic Pressure lol!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofR: How do Mr SDW? lol
Man...gotta say the rain we got sure as chtt showed MANY HO`s who had injections done to cracks in poured walls do not last and...these nimrods who talk people into it don`t seem to be around when crack re-leaks. lol They sure disappear pretty dang quick. Yeah right, 'injections have Lifetime Guarantee'...blcccht/nonsense.
HO in Clarkston couldn`t/wouldn`t wait for us so they hired some dumb chtt
Plenty of that this week, 19 estimates last week, many more HO couldn't wait, can't understand why I can't come immediately. When I try to explain it is to their benefit that I don't have salesmen, many don't care and deserve to pay big **$ to call me next year!!!
Show HO the link you sent months ago regarding army corp of engineers observance of injection, many still go for injection.
My favorite are new homes that immediately cracked, they called builder who sent injector over, now 6 months out of warranty cracks leak again, builder wont answer phone.
Plenty of that this week, 19 estimates last week, many more HO couldn't wait, can't understand why I can't come immediately. When I try to explain it is to their benefit that I don't have salesmen, many don't care and deserve to pay big **$ to call me next year!!!
Show HO the link you sent months ago regarding army corp of engineers observance of injection, many still go for injection.
My favorite are new homes that immediately cracked, they called builder who sent injector over, now 6 months out of warranty cracks leak again, builder wont answer phone.
Can you say Job Security!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOLOL!! Yes, i show them the link or e-mail that link and many others w/many pictures.....some still can`t put 2 `n 2 together or for some bonehead reason believe these misfits and their injection blcchtt. If injections were the way to go for most, you and i and Capizzo and EOF etc would have been doing them a looong time ago. Hear ya LOUD `n CLEAR on Da Builders and their injections too, when these cracks re-leak or, widen and re-leak, these bozo`s don`t answer their stupid cell phones/nowhere to be found.
Yep, some peeps will not wait. Some have been leaking for many years and when they do decide to fix the dang problem they want it done, yesterday.Those nitwit salespeople in THIS trade are some of the most pathetic,incompetent snots on the planet.
--Waterproofing .....'be prepared to weed through an array of proposals from waterproofing contractors-- a lot of them BOGUS.(dang skippy).....Done right,basement waterproofing is an EXTERIOR operation........supposed solutions like pumping special compounds along the exterior wall aren`t likely to work.There are also INTERIOR Systems.But they`re based on the SHAKY premise of letting the foundation leak and then trying to drain the water'
Determine/diagnose the problem(s) correctly and then have em repaired correctly, end of stupid problem.
RAISING and sloping the GRADE, extending downspout extensions etc does NOT DETERMINE-DIAGNOSE the problem,NOR does it repair/solve the problem.
When the problem is, water that first enters in/around a basement window or through open mortar joints etc then raising the grade/longer downspouts will not/has not repaired the open joints or window. Ya still have the open joints etc and will leak again.
When the problem is a basement back-up and ya need storm trap s n a k e d then, raising the grade/longer dnwpst extensions doesn`t do squat for this problem either.
And when ya have a crack in the wall or leaky rod holes then THAT is what ya NEED to fix/plug/waterproof correctly. Raising the grade does not waterproof the crack, did not plug the dumb az leaky-open rod holes.
Those who say chtt like...'raising and sloping the grade away,mudjacking slabs,longer downspout extensions SOLVE 80-90% of ALL leaky basements' is full of crap-o-la.
Glad I found this forum. Had a big Chicago bsmt waterproofing company (*****seal) try to sell me on repairing a cove joint crack with an interior drain tile system ($5,000) for 151 linear square feet. They were going to tie it all in to my existing sump pump. Was told water would find its way to other spots if i didn't do the entire perimeter. I have a few questions: My house was built in 1967 and the sump pit has 2 openings (look like clay pipes) on either side of it. Am I correct to assume that these pipes run the length of my basement floor and are connected to the outside drain tiles by some sort of bleeder system? The waterproofer told me I do not have any drain tiles on the inside of my house. If I don't, then what are the two clay pipes purpose in my sump pit? In any event, water comes in through the wall/floor joint and sometimes leaks hours (6) after a heavy sustained rain fall (no drywall is up so I have pinpointed the leak). Where do I even look for an exterior foundation repair service to hand dig? Every place I call wants to go right to the interior system and tells me how expensive it will be to dig outside. Any one in the Chicago region you know of from this board? Thank you for hopefully saving me some money tonight. Confused and upset!@!!!
Doesn't matter if the walls are block, concrete, or Wonder Bread. They need to be excavated, repaired, waterproofed and properly backfilled. I would think any masonry contractor who does foundations could do it. It isn't expensive if you only need one spot on the wall done.
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2492 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
This is in part how some 'THINK' they have learned how to waterproof basements when in fact they have NOT and are NOT stopping water from entering and very likely never determined/correctly diagnosed the HO`s actual problem(s). http://www.thonline.com/article.cfm?id=216527
They yap about mold,mildew,insects but when the problem are cracks etc on the outside and they are only installing an inside-system then,water/insects are, duh, still entering,J Krsitmas man.
They yap about having a 'fully waterproofed basement' yet mostly/only install inside systems! This does NOT give anyone a..'fully waterproofed basement' for pete sake.
Where they ask...How does water ENTER a home? THEY say the most common way of entry is where the floor and wall meet. Well duh, thats where it ENTERS ON THE INSIDE! This does NOT mean that is where the problem is! Hello? LOLOL People getting BS`d baby! One more time, just because a HO sees water on floor, at-along the cold joint,the cove...where bottom of wall and floor meet does NOT at all mean they have a problem under the stupid floor.
You have not determined the HO`s problem(s) by seeing water at wall-floor joint!! NO!! They come over, see water at wall-floor joint then tell ya you need an inside drain tile or baseboard system,usually w/a sump...bllchhtt!!
And the FIRST thing a g dang contractor should be recommending IF IF IF there is a possibilty of a basement back-up under the floor is,s n a k i n g the dumb chtt storm trap clean out and/or, if they have a sump pump and PIT, they may need to drill some holes up-high in the side wall of PIT,just under thickness of concrete floor.Most get water at-along cove/cold joint due to EXTERIOR cracks,loose parging etc,as in following pic`s. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2348288...1847456/t_=122238283
for instance,pics 8,9,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21
This HO, like MANY ONLY get/see water INSIDE at-along cove,where floor `n wall meet.
Did they waterproof home when BUILT? NO! They are right there BUT...more blccchttt when they tar is not a good waterproofing agent,lolol. Hey, NOT if the tar was thinly-applied....can you say only damproofed.Damproofing ain`t chtt. Get this straight will ya please!!
again, yap about MOLD but don`t stop water from entering through/into the wall,wonderful!
And 'permanent crack repair'??? Really? Epoxy injection is PERMANENT? Dude, come to our-school,we`ll show ya yer more than a LIL off. They state the liquid injection, when it hardens, is STRONGER than concrete? More nonsense! 'TRUE Waterproofing Professionals'....really?
Says...my finished basement is leaking, can you fix it without tearing the walls out? They answer...Yes, we have fixed water problems in LOTS of finished basements without the need to tear the walls out (Oh, ya mean not determing if the HO only has a leaky rod hole or one crack or opening above ground)...they say they use floor edging in conjunction w/drain tile and a sump pump.
In other words, they are NOT determining WHY-where-what the REAL PROBLEM is, they rather sell you an inside water-DIVERTING system, great/wonderful and imo, a SCAM!
False Advertising Noooobs They've been caught out trying to steal addresses from other companies on google maps, pretending to have offices in cities they don't, like boston and providence (one of the addresses is actually a clothing store LOL)
Also, they advertise in CT, but I called up the DCP in Hartford, and they don't have a salesperson or contractor licence in CT...BIG TIME JAIL time for that if they get caught.
Q) problem w/basement flooding,a Waterproofing company (water-diverting) charged me $14,219 to correct...Two of the firms inspectors (LOL) insisted underground water was being forced up into cellar...VIA HYDROSTATIC PRESSURE(heard that LIE before right?)...and ONLY a "French" drain would correct it......
A) Unfortunately, it sounds like you have been taken by a COMMON SCAM perpetrated by SO-called waterproofing experts. These snake-oil salesmen use high pressure tactics and scary words.....to pressure consumers into hiring them for EXPENSIVE and almost-always UNNECESSARY repairs............advice is to SUE the contractor for not correcting the problem and for FRAUD...Only through ACTIONS like these mostly disreputable THIEVES cease stop taking advantage of the COUNTLESS victims like yourself
LWP you are a good man for sure! I'm taking time later today to go cancel a contract my mom signed with Never dri this morning. I'm not trying to incinuate that they are a bad company but they sold my Mom an $11,000 contract (she's 78) 2 days ago for their multi step system. The floor is partially heaved due to hydrostatic pressure & block walls are largely in very good shape. I'm gonna have a competent SI inspect the footing & decide is it's necessary to jack walls out or repair footing while going through excavating backfill. salesman actually had the balls to tell her that "rafters" were wet & demonstrated by poking compass point into wood. Does this moron not even know what a joist is? I spent a few years roofing & know my way around construction. I love their technique of using an "inspection trench" outside then they'll dig deeper if they find cracks. Here's a thought, excavate the whole wall & waterproof it fixing any cracks found on whole wall!!!
First off, thanks a lot LWP for all the information and the pictures. Very helpful, up until now I really didn't know squat about basement waterproofing, and it seemed like most of the stuff I found by googling was either wrong or at least contradictory.
Anyhow, I have a duplex that I bought about a year ago. Built around 1920s. One of the tenants had mentioned that the basement was often damp and moldy smelling. I bought and have been running a dehumidifier, which seems to at least reduce the smell. But there's definitely still dampness along one wall especially, along with efflorescence. There's also some cracks on the interior of that wall that look like they were "repaired" poorly at some point (the wall is concrete block, btw).
After reading all your information, it sounds like I need to do exactly what you recommend, digging up the outside of that wall and fixing the problem at its source. I'm pretty handy, but this job is one I'd probably rather leave to a pro. Do you happen to know of any contractors in the Upstate NY area that do this type of work and won't try to sell me on an expensive "inside package?" Specifically, I'm in Syracuse? If you don't know of any specifically, any advice on the best way to find one? Just go through all the "Basement Waterproofing" contractors until I find one that recommends the "real solution?"
Thanks a lot!
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Auream,
Posts: 2 | Location: Syracuse, NY | Registered: 14 January 2008
Originally posted by Scott L: LWP you are a good man for sure! I'm taking time later today to go cancel a contract my mom signed with Never dri this morning. I'm not trying to incinuate that they are a bad company but they sold my Mom an $11,000 contract (she's 78) 2 days ago for their multi step system. The floor is partially heaved due to hydrostatic pressure & block walls are largely in very good shape. I'm gonna have a competent SI inspect the footing & decide is it's necessary to jack walls out or repair footing while going through excavating backfill. salesman actually had the balls to tell her that "rafters" were wet & demonstrated by poking compass point into wood. Does this moron not even know what a joist is? I spent a few years roofing & know my way around construction. I love their technique of using an "inspection trench" outside then they'll dig deeper if they find cracks. Here's a thought, excavate the whole wall & waterproof it fixing any cracks found on whole wall!!!
Scott, yeah, like digging a lil shallow 'inspection trench' will somehow determine/show those deep-long-horizontal cracks just above the footing or, show whether or not there are gaps where a gas line enters 3'deep and so on. Example- HORIZONTAL crack in pics 6,7 http://photosmart.hpphoto.com/FilmStripHome.aspx?JobID=...4fdb451cc22f&SKU=HP#
This area/footage is all the homeowmner could afford, really needed to waterproof entire wall.
You`ll see some pics inside basement, efflorescence on lower blocks,paint peeling etc. HO recently painted walls which does not repair/waterproof exterior cracks and other openings which is where water first-enters into the blocks.
When some say/think they solved leaky basement by adding soil etc, a few of us know they didn`t fix squat