ok, well...started out in `76 working for other companies,some good-some bad. Some did inside,some outside,some both. And some did wall replacement, j`d up the house,knocked out the wall where needed,replaced `n parged,waterproofed,backfilled etc Some also did driveways/patios etc, throughout them,everything was done by hand...no backhoe/trencher for digging etc.
Only time a b`hoe was used was when the 'boss' had drive`s ta do,broke out by hand,sledge...and toss the pieces into the bucket, he did Not use forks etc to pick up each slab and put on truck, not good for the dump ya know.
Started my own in `78, ALL 'Basement Waterproofing', all hand dug & backfilled by hand-wheelbarrows and had to shovel all that P stone After digging usually 9-12'+, each guy digging that amount, each day or every Other day, depends on the weather. Heck of a workout and in late 1999 i was finally able to save `n buy a (1)Dump to 'ease' the pain in da but of shovelin` all that dang P stone. If i was Any kind of a scammer i`d have owned 3-5 + dumps,stake trucks,several buildings and all the other trimmings many other waterproofing co.`s have, Not all. I`m Not knocking ALL those who have `em,just some.
I`m not a mason,electrician etc or claim to be, and it appears you have found your way into this trade. The Wide World of Waterproofing...spanning the internet to bring you a variety of crap,the thrill of victory, and the agony of a leaky-moldy basement.
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
So you think any waterproofer that owns there own real estate, and all of thier own equipment, that runs efficiently enough to run many crews are scammers or is it that you are small time and just don't know how to break through. The reason I say so is because after reading what you have wrote in the past you obviously have no ideal about basement waterproofing or how to run a bussines! If you don't know it is ok. Don't lie to the public and make up things, Just simply join an organization like the NAWSRC and the continuing education and fellow members will help to ansewer your ?'s
Nationally Certified Waterproofer by the NAWSRC.com
Posts: 96 | Location: Columbus | Registered: 30 December 2005
small time with a TON more knowledge than MANY of you, documented,end of that 'story'.
join,PAY $795 for what? I have thousands of Homeowners to back my azz up, and get this, unlike MANY of you, 0,yup, thats a ZERO complaints.
Everything i`ve stated is backed by 'other Pro`s' who are ....very knowledgable and, ahem, Honest! got that?
The NAWSRC claims since its beginning ......." The NAWSRC has been a Champion of the rights of it`s Members and Consumers,Requiring STRICT Ethics and Standards From it`s MEMBERS"....get this one..."In the state of Pennsylvania, the NAWSRC`s influence dissuaded that State from......forcing unfair REGULATION upon its members of the industry located in that State"....let`s see now, the follwoing is a Partial list of waterproofing contractors who are also NAWSRC Members, and what the BBB has logged as complaints from consumers in last 12 to 36 months...i`m Not using this for anything other than what it supposedly is there for, for the Consumers/Homeowners to check up on, period. -further down i`ll bring more of 'Pennsylvania' in on this post-
1) All American Exterminating & Waterproofing Atl,GA 9 complaints last 36 months, 5 in last 12 mth
2) Tri State All Dry Systems Evansville,IN 5 complaints last 36 mth BBB lists as 'Unsatisfactory' due to unresolved complaints
3) Everdry Waterproofing 'dba' Kamin Industries South Bend,IN 16 complaints last 36 mth 'unsatisfactory' company has generated more than average # of complaints
4) Ever-dry Waterproofing 'dba' Miken Industries Fort Wayne,IN 50 complaints last 36 mth 'unsatisfactory' The Bureau has received complaints alleging dissatisfaction & the Bureau has repeatedly demanded the company cease using federally registered trademarks of the BBB. In Dec. of 2003 the Indiana ATTY Gen. filed lawsuit agst this company and on `n on.....2003, since, At least 9 complaints within the last Year http://www.wane.com/Global/story.asp?S=3027141
5) Basement Doctor Waterproofing Trevose,PA 81 complaints last 36 mth 'unsatisfactory record' due to unanswered complaints
6) Water Stoppers aka Everdry Waterproofing Cranberry Twp,PA 47 complaints last 36 mth BBB company agreed to pay $15,000+ after entering consent agreement w/ Penn. ATTY Gen, but its not any admission of a wrong doing or guilt, ok! whatever they say!
7) Value Dry Basement Technologies King of Prussia,PA 11 complaints last 36 mth, 5 last 12 mth
8) C & M Waterproofing St Louis,MO 34 complaints last 36 mth BBB doesnt say Satisfactory or Not
i will return `n post more soon, again, these may ALL be the Greatest Companies on earth, then again maybe not, let the PUBLIC decide, GIVE them the TRUE info and let decide Mr Expert don`t blame my azz for the incompetence of others
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
You may have ZERO complaints, thats great! But it only means one thing. YOU DON"T DO MUCH WORK!!!!!!!!!!! This is a simple fact to prove. If you do any amount of work at all you will get a few complaints. Becaus there is no way to please every one all the time. Just like there are unreasonable contractors there are a lot of very unreasonable consumers, and a few that are trying to get something for nothing. I would love to spend all day on this fourm but, we are busy pleasing our many customers. But just because you are dishonest to the public which I will not put up with. I will take some time each week to tell them the truth! Oh, watch your mouth this is a public fourm. You could try to act professional I know it would be a strech. Oh and one more question with you Mickey Mouse fixes, how long do you warrant a job? Oh I know until you get paid. How silly of me. It's guys like you that give us all a bad name.
Nationally Certified Waterproofer by the NAWSRC.com
Posts: 96 | Location: Columbus | Registered: 30 December 2005
shtt, i just Started to post you some, seems to be plenty for now, let me know if you`d like More!
you are entitled to think,believe and post what ya like, same as others here
there is no doubt in my mind, and other lic,good,competent,honest waterproofing contractors that quite a few others are unscrupulous,cheats,lacking sufficient knowledge and integrity who also use the wrong method/system for waterproofing 'Most' homes, this is obvious.
ok, Mr Big shot, as the Pistons call Chauncey B., what excatly are YOUR qualifications? Where did you learn whatever it is you do,you and Many of you over there are Experts, right? Well please fill us in,thank you
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
Folks, really not much more need for YOU, the Public to see-read what it is i`m talking about, why i`ve been posting. If you haven`t figured it out yet for YOUR own benefit, you Never will..."And the Truth Shall set You Free!"
When the white Eagle of the North is flying overhead,
and the browns,reds and golds of Autumn lie in the gutter,dead.
Remember then, the Summer birds with wings of fire flaying,
come to witness Springs new hope, born of leaves decaying.
Just as new life will come from death,love will come at leisure,
Love of love, love of life and Giving Without Measure.
Gives in return a Wonderous Yearn of a Promise, almost seen!
Well, let me see. I run a company succesfully built on principles and honesty by meeting customers needs, and providing a rewarding and satisfying career for employees.
I am a fourth-generation foundation person, and hold many contractors licenses, In Ohio General commercial contractor, General home improvement contractor, basement waterproofing, demolition, and sewer contractor. In Louisiana I hold a General contracting license. I also have received a few awards like 2005 Small Business Person of the year from the United States Small Bussiness Administration, 2004 Family Business of the year from The Family Business Center, Business First has named us Greater Columbus Top 25 residental remodelers 03,04, and 2005 They also named us in thier 40 under 40, and the Fast 50 awards. We just recieved the ACE award from NARI, Angies List's Super Service award.
I to started with other companies that did many things that were not right. Now after 10 years in the business I can say, I am doing something about it. Thats what The NAWSRC does. If you can't aford the $795.00 Per year for more education. Then I would say you should get out of the business.
Nationally Certified Waterproofer by the NAWSRC.com
Posts: 96 | Location: Columbus | Registered: 30 December 2005
i just posted a few basic questions on 'other topic', just want to make sure you see these questions and allow you 'True Professionals' a chance to respond, shouldn`t be 'Any' problem for experts like yourselves to address these
1) Would you 2 care to comment on lateral & hydrostatic pressure `n tree roots that,evidently, cause basement walls to crack,shift,bow,buckle inwards? What is 'your' remedy?
2) Would you care to comment `n let the world know what you think is the correct/best system-method to Stop/prevent water entry into & through cracks & other Outside openings?
3) And gentlemen, care to enlighten homeowners on mold,efflorescence? What causes mold `n efflorescence & any solutions you may have for the public?
4) What about how radon enters through cracks `n other openings in basement walls & floors,sump pumps etc? ANY radon remediation other than sealing cracks,pores etc in walls & floors will Not stop radon from continuing to enter, and since many/not all cracks Widen, then isn`t it very possible for 'more' radon,water etc to Enter? Do tell us
5) Termites can `n have wrecked many homes,how exactly do they get inside homes/buildings? Does ANY Inside drain tile or baseboard Dewatering system Stop & Prevent water from entering through cracks & other openings in basement walls or openings above ground? Will ANY Inside system stop/prevent mold, radon entry through cracks `n other openings in walls? Can ANY Inside system stop/prevent lateral & hydrostatic pressure & tree roots from cracking,bowing,`n possibly collapsing walls? Will that system stop/prevent Termites `n other insects from Entering through Outside cracks & openings?
Please inform the public to the best of your ability, i`m sure they love to hear from the 'True Professionals' like yourselves,maybe the Media would like the answers to ALL of these questions from True Pro`s/Experts so they can try `n help & inform their viewers and listeners, here is 1 opportunity for you 2 to Explain and Help. thank you.
What happened to my new friends,Basement Guy & Basement Answers? I do wish `em a Happy New Year.
If and when either one of you Pro`s come back, please answer a few basic-simple questions and help inform homeowners whom you say you care about, and maybe some of the media would like to read your Expert/Experienced/Honest answers,ready gentlemen?
1) will Any Inside j-hammer/drain tile or baseboard dewatering system/method with sump, Stop/Prevent water from entering through cracks & other openings in basement walls?
2) will Any Inside j-hammer/drain tile or baseboard dewatering system w/sump,Stop/Prevent mold on basement walls-behind drywall/paneling or Any sheeting?
3) will Any Inside j-hammer/drain tile or baseboard dewatering system w/sump, Stop/Prevent radon from entering through any cracks `n other outside openings?
4) will Any Inside j-hammer/drain tile or baseboard dewatering system w/sump, Stop/Relieve/Lessen any lateral & hydrostatic pressure or tree roots that is against the outside of basement walls which can further crack,bow or collapse a wall?
5) will Any Inside j-hammer/drain tile or baseboard dewatering system w/sump, stop termites and other insects from entering a home through cracks & other outside openings?
i want to thank you professional experts in advance
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005
See post under the section you so named as Basement Answers instead of continueing this conversation in the forum. Seems you like to debate and apparently don't have much need for sleep.
Posts: 10 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 28 December 2005
don`t you think you should read and try understand what IS lateral & hydrostatic pressure, what it can `n will do to basement walls when not remedied? You cannot take these pressure`s off the basement wall from the Inside or with an Inside system! Any contractor who refuses to understand,learn and make proper recommendations to homewoners imo `n others, need to held Liable, period-end of story.Wake up waterproofing contractors and start making the CORRECT recommendations or be held responsible.
http://www.bobvila.com/ArticleLibrary/Task/Inspecting/FoundationFailure.html " Hydrostatic pressure and soil pressure increase with depth"..." The water pressure against a basement when the SOIL is thoroughly soaked is called hydrostatic pressure. It can force moisture through pores in the basement wall and even crack or buckle the wall itself. Here again,proper drainage is the remedy."
"Of the major soil types (gravel,sand,silt and clay), gravel and sand impose the smallest loads',even when wet."
--Careful on the Construction Site--
When there`s a heavy load on the ground next to a foundation, some of the pressure is transferred to the wall. During construction,bulldozers & trucks that come near a basement wall can add enough surcharge pressure to.....damage the wall. A new building being built near an existing basement can also Increase the Underground pressure & Damage the existing foundation. Even parked cars can cause trouble, so it`s wise to anticipate any surcharge loads and design the foundation accordingly.
If anyone would have been sitting or standing near the wall at the time of failure,i doubt they would have survived.....the emotional grief/anguish that ensues once the homeowner finds out that their homeowner`s Insurance policy will NOT cover the cost or repair....these costs can easily exceed tens of thousands.
The backfill of choice is sand or gravel. Unfortunately, most builders backfill the basement with the original soil that was excavated...
http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp " We Firmly believe a foundation should be Backfilled with washed gravel (not dirt) from the basement floor level all the way up to within 2-3" of the finished grade level outside of the home. This does several things. Any surface water which makes it way up against the foundation....and which penetrates the top 2-3" of lawn surface can easily drain through this gravel down to the perf. footing tile. This is especially important,if not CRITICAL, with soils having high clay content. Secondly, this type of Drainage Prevents trapped water and saturated soil next to the foundation from building up horizontal hydrostatic pressure against the wall. This pressure will crack walls,cause leaks,and in a worse case, collapse the wall inward."
Despite these Facts, most building codes require only 18" of coverage from the bottom up. The additional cost for full height backfill is approx $3,000. For this reason, most builders provide only the minimum coverage required by codes.
Just because there is a 'code' does NOT mean that its best for the home/homeowner,hardly. And hey, maybe you truly are an honest guy who possibly learned from others the 'wrong' stuff, happens pretty often. Learning a trade from a supposed waterproofing expert i can see where many are obviously going to believe them and what was told to them to be the best way ta do things,if ya know what i mean. But what if who you/others learned several things from, was NOT an expert? Claimed to be,sounded good, but was more myth than fact.
--M Blues.....there ya go man, keep as cool as you can. Face piles and piles of trials with smiles .... it riles them to believe that you perceive the web they weave, so keep on thinking free.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by LicensedWaterproofer: Hi buddy,
debate is good for public,don`t ya think?
don`t you think you should read and try understand what IS lateral & hydrostatic pressure, what it can `n will do to basement walls when not remedied? You cannot take these pressure`s off the basement wall from the Inside or with an Inside system! Any contractor who refuses to understand,learn and make proper recommendations to homewoners imo `n others, need to held Liable, period-end of story.Wake up waterproofing contractors and start making the CORRECT recommendations or be held responsible.
http://www.bobvila.com/ArticleLibrary/Task/Inspecting/FoundationFailure.html " Hydrostatic pressure and soil pressure increase with depth"..." The water pressure against a basement when the SOIL is thoroughly soaked is called hydrostatic pressure. It can force moisture through pores in the basement wall and even crack or buckle the wall itself. Here again,proper drainage is the remedy."
"Of the major soil types (gravel,sand,silt and clay), gravel and sand impose the smallest loads',even when wet."
--Careful on the Construction Site--
When there`s a heavy load on the ground next to a foundation, some of the pressure is transferred to the wall. During construction,bulldozers & trucks that come near a basement wall can add enough surcharge pressure to.....damage the wall. A new building being built near an existing basement can also Increase the Underground pressure & Damage the existing foundation. Even parked cars can cause trouble, so it`s wise to anticipate any surcharge loads and design the foundation accordingly.
If anyone would have been sitting or standing near the wall at the time of failure,i doubt they would have survived.....the emotional grief/anguish that ensues once the homeowner finds out that their homeowner`s Insurance policy will NOT cover the cost or repair....these costs can easily exceed tens of thousands.
The backfill of choice is sand or gravel. Unfortunately, most builders backfill the basement with the original soil that was excavated...
http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp " We Firmly believe a foundation should be Backfilled with washed gravel (not dirt) from the basement floor level all the way up to within 2-3" of the finished grade level outside of the home. This does several things. Any surface water which makes it way up against the foundation....and which penetrates the top 2-3" of lawn surface can easily drain through this gravel down to the perf. footing tile. This is especially important,if not CRITICAL, with soils having high clay content. Secondly, this type of Drainage Prevents trapped water and saturated soil next to the foundation from building up horizontal hydrostatic pressure against the wall. This pressure will crack walls,cause leaks,and in a worse case, collapse the wall inward." dear sir I have learnt allot from reading the post. Let me tell you what I did ,,,, crazy maybe, but working.I had some basement leaks. I got thinking about how the mice get into a home.Little bastards. I think they follow the water in through cracks as small as they are, no problem when your body is only cartlidge. So i tried something I mixed some watered down sement and let it run the same way the water would run. guess what no more leaks no more mice. now i needed to change the water run off. I layed down some of that landscaping material with 4 inches pea gravel and the ground is no longer getting saturated. I guess i lucked out its never been better and cost was so very little. I had someone look at it but the guy had to much to say and i just like a challenge aswell. Maybe i should patend it and call it water technogies, by the way I am just a network technician nothing to do with foundations just something i tried with nothing to lose. take care tks
hey, good for you. i don`t know how long its been since you did that,keep your fingers crossed and i hope things hold up for you.
maybe by mixing the cement and pouring it where ya did, enough of it got against the upper part of a crack where some water/mice was entering,or filled a void in the ground near the crack/other opening in wall and for now, will direct water elsewhere.Also laying down whatever landscaping material has helped as well and, the 4" of P gravel can keep water from puddling up next to that part of wall, where a crack etc may be, for awhile.
We/I have seen people try many different things. Including digging 1-3' X 12-18" wide trench and pouring against wall,or digging 1-2' trench along wall and placing a thick sheeting, almost like a tarp on thr ground `n sloping it away, then putting the soil back over it, or digging a trench and putting drain tile and peastone in trench and running it towards front/back of house etc.
While in a few cases these water diverting techniques did divert 'some-surface' and 'just below surface' water away, it did not last. It did not stop/prevent all water from entering, didnt sop/prevent mold/efflorescence or further wall movement...cracks-bowing etc.Couple of the owners were retired Builders who hoped 1-3' of concrete agst the wall would keep ALL water away but unfortunately didnt and could have actually put More pressure agst the wall due to weight of concrete. In a lil time,the others didnt keep all water away either but for a handful out there, they may get lucky for awhile longer. Again,i hope it lasts for you gl