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  Paver covered stoop installed - Now leaking from top of foundation wall
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Posted
About 3 months ago I have a new stoop installed in the front of my house. The stoop is about 4 feet deep by 10 feet wide. It is poured concrete. The old stoop was broken up and removed. The top of the stoop is covered with about 1/4" of sand then Cambridge pavers. With the pavers installed they are about 1.5 inches above the existing cedar shingle siding. The poured base was poured over the existing siding and an existing window was covered with plywood and filled in with concrete. Now when it rains, water slowly leaks all around the top of the foundation and onto the floor and where the window used to be in pours in from both sides and over the top. I tried to remedy this already by removing the bottom row of siding shingles and installing long pieces of aluminum flashing with lots of flashing cement under neath. Each piece of aluminum was about 24" high bend at 90 degrees such that 8" on the slab and the rest under the siding/house wrap. I then mixed up some sand mix and put over the flahsing and reinstalled the paver bricks and bottom row of siding. The flashing pieces were about 2 1/2 feet long and staggered on top of each other along the pitch of the slab. There was flashing cement used on all joint areas and they overlap about 10". This has somewhat slowed the leaking but the water is still coming in. I did note that when I removed the siding there was a 1/2" gap between the slab and the foundation/sheething on the house, but I figured it would not be problem after the flashing. I just filled with some DAP expanding foam. My father has suggested removing the pavers out to 2.5 feet all around removing the flashing and cleaning everything off, then filling this gap either with a flexible waterproof epoxy mix or a waterproof polyurethane foam. Then when dry paining the slab out to the 2.5 feet with a couple of coats of heavy duty waterproof membrane or epoxy and up the exterior wall of the house. Then reinstalling the flashing, siding and bricks. Does anyone have an opinions on this? Also should the mansonry contractor be responsible for this? It seems he does not know what he is doing when it comes to waterproofing or closing up a basement window? Any help would be greatly appreciated because my sill plate is soaked and looks like it might start rotting or attracting termites.

Background:
7' poured walls
French drain installed because of high water table (B-Dry system) with two sump pumps and lateral line installed. Still have moist cracks on the floor, but that is another problem. Pumps are pumping continuously because of high water table for the last several months.
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 07 January 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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This one would have to be seen before any comment could be made. There are too many variables that would have to be tied down to properly evaluate the situation and make recommendations.


Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
 
Posts: 2477 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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dax,

as Richard says, best to see

couple thoughts, obviously wood can attract termites so, why place it underground? Why not brick/block in the window that is underground and then waterproof it? ...thats one possible Point-of-Entry for water/rain

other possible Points-of-entry are, ANY openings around a door,threshold, seams/gaps in siding,and believe it or not...if there is a light-fixture or doorbell with small gaps/openings around em....yep! Any openings/small lil gaps in mortar joints/bricks are entry-points for rain, especially on longer,heavier wind blown rains.

sometimes there are openings along/at top of bsmt wall on outside and on some-homes... top of wall is UNDEGROUND so, any spaces-openings along that point are possible points=of-entry for water. same goes when the top of wall extends above-ground.

way you describe situation, sumps have nothing to do with water/rain entering at higher on wall, gotta find the 'point(s) of entry, the pathways, ALL-any outside openings to stop-prevent water...yeah yeah, some will always want to try and 'divert' water INSTEAD of finding `n sealing the direct openings into home

for instance, when some have a crack in basement wall on a drive-side, instead of waterproofing the crack they`ll apply some foam,tar etc where driveway meets house. Now, while they may get LUCKY for awhile and see no water, sooner or later with a heavier-longer rain water is going to enter through the crack again because they.....never fixed the PROBLEM. The problem all the while was the CRACK in bsmt wall. Like i say, a few will get lucky, MOST will leak again, take that to the bank.

You can run a hose...a water test which will, recreate a heavy rain to, see where/how water is entering. Gotta have some patience when doing this though Smiler Thats why many hm insp`s won`t do this, takes TIME. They rather tell folks to raise the grade, get longer downspouts etc, WRONG answer Big Grin

Running a hose in your situation will be a lil tougher but you can still do it to help find the problem(S), yep, may be plural.

I`d first run the water at GROUND level, around base of porch, at side of porch if ya have to. DON`t start high first, no. Run the water, soak the CRAP outta the SOIL below/around the porch, you may have to run the water for a bit longer, up to 1 hour and, run the water full blast, not a lil trickle, you want to KNOW.

Ok, so ya soak the ground around the porch, after running that much water, after recreating a good heavy rain, you should find out/see whether or not there is an opening(s) below ground, the window....if you get water in then the window/other opening needs to be sealed/fixed!

If you do NOT get water in after running a ton of water then the opening(s) will be from Ground-level UP. Openings above grade i posted earlier are some of the more common ones, you can spray-soak the siding etc starting just above ground and working UP, slowly. do one isolated area at a time. Have someone helping you, in basement WATCH to see if-when water enters...know what i mean?

And just because you find 1 problem/1 opening--get water in, doesn`t mean there aren`t other openings. Hopefully not, just saying some HO`s have 2++ problem areas.

I run a water test pretty often on estimates, darn good UNBIASED way to show HO how/where water is FIRST entering from the Outside.
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks for the responses Richard and LicencedWaterproofer. I will definitely try the hose this weekend to see if I can zero in on the problem. I am hoping to solve this issue myself. I will try the hose and see about taking some pictures.
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 07 January 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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ok Dax, gl....soak the crap outta the soil below & around the porch FIRST. 45 minutes or maybe a tad longer. Sometimes it`ll just take couple minutes, 10-15 minutes, just depends
 
Posts: 710 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 24 August 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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