Waterproofr--at least one of the articles you posted came from Saint Louis. I don't supposed you're from Saint Louis are you? I've got Wood's Basement Systems coming next Wednesday, but I know they're going to suggest some huge drain tile solution when I don't really need it. I only have water coming through ONE spot, right where the water main comes in the foundation. It only drips during heavy rain. I am looking for a company who will just do what is necessary to repair it, which it seems is to dig down from the outside to the hole and patch it up from there. Please, anyone recommend a trustworthy company who would do this. Thanks!
Posts: 8 | Location: St. Louis MO | Registered: 08 February 2008
sorry don`t know anyone there, doesn`t mean you won`t find 1+..take some time,maybe call some 'builder supply co`s' and see if they know of company(s) who frequent their place and know they`re honest.
since its a small kinda job, maybe you and/or couple buddies could do it, know it gets done right and save some cash,i could help talk ya through it if you like,explain what ya need etc
so you know,for a job like that,hand-dug to footing,waterproofed and backfilled correctly,depending on depth to footing would be between $800-950 ish...the deeper the costlier.
if your about 6' deep,it would be dug out in 45-60 minutes and take about 3-4 hours total.
Now i don`t knock anyone else if they were to charge a bit more, say maybe 1,000-1,100,but to us anything more than those numbers is gouging
Thanks for the information. I think I'm just going to hope it doesn't rain too much in the next couple of months and tackle this job myself in the spring. Am I right that this is the thing to do to fix the leak? Do you think if done right it will solve the problem?
Posts: 8 | Location: St. Louis MO | Registered: 08 February 2008
from what you described in the 2 posts, sure appears/sounds like you have gap/opening where water line enters through wall...it IS the wall right? if its a block wall there may be a crack,loose parging in same/nearby area
have done tons of these types,whether a water,gas,sprinkler etc line...all A-ok when their done right.
some, as 'Somer' stated, will try epoxy etc,apparently that didn`t work for them.Epoxy you could try on poured wall only if thats what one wants to do
Alright. This makes me feel better. Wow will it be a mess when I start digging, though. Yest it is through the wall--poured foundation. What tools should I use to do the best job digging? Post-hole digger? Just put a tarp down to catch all the dirt? When you say epoxy are you talking about trying to patch it from the inside? Is that even worth trying, especially since you can tell someone's tried that before and it obviously didn't work.
Posts: 8 | Location: St. Louis MO | Registered: 08 February 2008
i would not recommend epoxy but there will always be some who`ll want it, try it.whatever they want,its their house.If a get a call from someone who asks/wants an injection i give them the facts and wish them good luck, some will last a bit and some won`t, thats the truth.
Not going to sell a 50% succes rate,cross yer fingers fix,i just won`t do it. Others can all the injections,i don`t want em, obviously not about money for me/us, if it were i`d...be doing injections,inside sytems etc.
a mess? depends how ya do it. for instance, if you choose to put same soil back in then i wouldn`t place it anywhere near the hole/ditch.Place it on driveway slab on on plywood a ways away from the hole,always best to play safe and,it`ll be neater/cleaner and easier to shovel off cement/plywood versus grass/tarp.
i wouldn`t put same soil in but again, your house.as we dig down each w`barrow goes out to street, after waterproofing that part of wall, backfill w/gravel-peastone with a lil top soil if ya choose.
to dig, use digging shovel not a flat shovel or rat wall shovel.a flat shovel will come in handy when backfilling,shoveling gravel off street or dirt off drive.
if you run into some CRAP,bricks/blocks/wood etc then you`ll have to kinda dig around `em a bit,loosen em up and toss em out.That CRAP ya don`t want against the wall(if your backfill`g w/same soil)
You're right. I want to fix it right. I'll just try my best to keep it dry till spring then do this. I'll haul away the dirt or use it somewhere else in the yard because I do want to backfill with stone. Thanks so much for the advice.
Posts: 8 | Location: St. Louis MO | Registered: 08 February 2008
Well I found a guy on Craigslist. He's got 20 plus years of basement leak repair. He says he does this job all the time and will do it for $350. I figured it's worth it to save me the time. He's going to backfill with gravel and he's going to patch the whole with hydraulic cement and tar and put a membrane on it. He's going to put plastic on the top of the gravel and then fill the top foot or so with soil. Is there anything I should look for to make sure he does a good job? I'm going to be able to inspect the job before he backfills. Don't you think for $350 I should go ahead and get it done as long as they do a good job?
Posts: 8 | Location: St. Louis MO | Registered: 08 February 2008
As a representative from Woods Basement Systems, one major detail that we practice in all of our consultations with homeowners', is making sure we recommend the best solution for your basement. It is important to us that we give you suggestions for keeping your basement dry all the time and/or preventing your foundation from failing.
We do not use high-pressure sales tactics, nor will we recommend something for your basement and/or foundation that we did not feel that you needed. Our A+ rating with the Better Business Bureau attributes that we are a top notch company to work with.
Woods Basement Systems
Posts: 3 | Location: Collinsville, IL | Registered: 02 September 2009
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Woods: As a representative from Woods Basement Systems, one major detail that we practice in all of our consultations with homeowners', is making sure we recommend the best solution for your basement. It is important to us that we give you suggestions for keeping your basement dry all the time and/or preventing your foundation from failing.
Is that right? You recommend the best solution? You peeps install interior water-diverting systems so how the crap is that going to stop water from entering exterior cracks like these.....HUH? lol http://www2.snapfish.com/slide...122238283_111847456/
For ANY exterior cracks like those,just how in this world do you peeps figure that recommending and installing your inside system is the best solution to stopping/preventing water from continuing to enter those exterior cracks? Yer inside system is not stopping water,termites and other insects or radon gas from entering those cracks...hello,anybody home?
And what about relieving/lessening lateral soil pressure and/or roots OFF the exterior of a wall that CAUSED the cracks or bowed wall to begin with? You probably never seen something like this,it CAUSED the cracks which then allowed water to enter...problems are outside which you peeps do nothing about http://www2.snapfish.com/slide...122238283_111847456/
You also cover/hide the wall-cracks-mold etc w/sheeting. This inside knothead company installed their crap here,covered the lower blocks.Cracks are widening,wall is bowed in a bit,water is still entering and mold and efflorescence is on parts of basement wall because inside systems don`t relieve lateral pressure,roots,concrete slabs etc and don`t waterproof the exterior cracks.Money spent of this incompetent crap should have been spent on the outside fixing the actual problems,hello? http://www2.snapfish.com/slide...122238283_111847456/
Fairfax county VA --BASEMENT WALL DAMAGE http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/D...tions/marineclay.htm ......Cause........Resolution, ....to prevent FURTHER damage,the clay MUST be REMOVED and replaced w/sandy or gravelly soils.........and waterproof the EXTERIOR of wall
Not fixing/waterproofing homeowners actual problems and then concealing part or all of the inside wall that has existing-defects (crack(s),bowed wall,mold etc) is incompetent/negligent (often fraud) and can and should get you sued.
Posts: 88 | Location: MI | Registered: 31 July 2009
Fraud,legal dictionary 1a: any act,expression,omission or concealment calculated to deceive another to his/her disadvantage; a misrepresentation or concealment with reference to some fact material to a transaction that is made with knowledge of its truth or falsity and with the intent to deceive another and that is reasonably relied on by the other who is injured thereby
Posts: 88 | Location: MI | Registered: 31 July 2009
“Is this right? You recommend the best solution? You peeps install interior water-diverting systems so how the crap is that going to stop water from entering exterior cracks like these…HUH? lol http://www2.snapfish.com/slide...22238283_111847456/”
The picture shown obviously needs; a.) tuck pointing and/or b.) foundation repair (inspection). Foundation repair is not the same as waterproofing. Additionally, the other assumptions you are making do not fix every type of repair, “best solutions”, that we offer.
Example from your posting –
“You also cover/hide the wall-cracks-mold etc w/sheeting. This inside knothead company installed their crap here,covered the lower blocks.Cracks are widening,wall is bowed in a bit,water is still entering and mold and efflorescence is on parts of basement wall because inside systems don`t relieve lateral pressure,roots,concrete slabs etc and don`t waterproof the exterior cracks.Money spent of this incompetent crap should have been spent on the outside fixing the actual problems,hello?
We work in Illinois/Missouri and to some extent agree with your position and do not do that type of work here.
Woods Basement Systems
Posts: 3 | Location: Collinsville, IL | Registered: 02 September 2009
Picture shown,the problems shown needed to be waterproofed.........outside,period.
Another homeowner bsd into a supposed need for Water Guard. Has the SAME problems/seepage-mold because Water Guard or any other interior garbage does not waterproof exterior cracks and other exterior openings where water first-enters into blocks http://www.flickr.com/photos/28992838@N07/2708000265/
And whats up here in yer Wet Basement Solution video? It falsely-misdirects people,says... 'when exterior drains fail...and leading people to believe they need an inside system'..etc,while showing the inside of a basement wall that has OBVIOUS exterior cracks for pete sake! Thats where the water is first-entering into the hollow blocks....hello!!
Yer vid doesn`t show,say squat about waterproofing those exterior cracks...outside. Can SEE the cracks early on in video,can see the problems (outside) but you don`t say anything about it,just to install an inside system which IS NOT stopping the water that will continue to enter/pass through exterior cracks you rather leave OPEN,unreal! http://www.woodsbasementsystem...ent_sub.php?pageid=8 ...then of course covering/hiding the basement wall,homeowner and next-homeowner will have NO idea what condition the basement wall is in. Can`t see crack(s),won`t know if cracks have WIDENED or wall is bowing in,can`t see likely mold or efflorescence on the wall cuz you peeps cover/hide the ***t. If you peeps don`t know/think lateral soil pressure can`t-won`t CAUSE cracks etc,think again http://www.lrb.usace.army.mil/...y/photos/photos.html Eyeball those top 3 pic`s,see the inside system crap that was done,it didn`t and will never relieve-lessen exterior pressure
As for possible water accumulating under a basement floor,better try `n find WHERE,HOW,WHY that water is accumulating. Pretty dang often its because there is a blockage in the LATERAL LINE,needs to be s*****....many ONLY need this or possibly replacing part-all of the line due to a possible crack etc in the line itself http://www.msdgc.org/downloads...ses_wet_basement.pdf
Page 2 and 4 -Fixing the Problem -Broken or Clogged Lateral Lines -Sewer Line Backups
You people EVER recommend to homeowners THIS may be part or ALL of the reason they may have water coming up through a floor crack etc? Highly doubt it.
Others who might have water coming up through floor crack etc may just have an existing sump problem,need for adjustment or replacement or may only need to snake the tiles that empty into pit.Others may have a THIN floor,need a new correctly poured floor.Still other homeowners can get this accumulation of water under their floor due to CITY problem beyond homeowners property,does not at all mean any of these need any type of interior system.Do you peeps fully inform all homeowers of these possibilities? HIGHLY doubt it.
Milwaukee,heavy rains OVERWHELM PIPES,flood basements http://www.jsonline.com/news/milwaukee/48646722.html ..."Caused backups in hundreds of basements....aging sanitary and storm sewer unable to handle the deluge...massive amounts of water seeped through cracks in the sewer LATERALS and main pipes,then flowed back INTO homes,often combining with sewer water...any blockage in the LATERALS from HOMES TO main pipes COMPOUNDED the problem".
Posts: 88 | Location: MI | Registered: 31 July 2009
