..in part story said..."Missouri`s ATTY GEN. successfully sued a fraud rebate company that worked with a New Jersey waterproofing firm.New Jersey`s Consumer Affairs Office said it has received more than 30 complaints against the top 3 companies doing work in the state".
That means, top 3 grossing, not necessarily meaning best 3 or, 3 most honest.
"The state Division of Consumer Affairs has logged 10 complaints against Atlantis Waterproofing from Feb 2004 through April 2006 and another 5 against it`s sister company, NationDry...from June through Oct 2006."
"Complaints include excessive charges,false promises,misrepresentation,unsatisfactory service and failure to return deposits or payments"
"Mid Atlantic Waterproofing of South Plainfield received 17 complaints from 2004 through June 2006, those include poor and faulty workmanship, unsatisfactory repair and maintenance and warranty issues"
I was told to consult you. My house is smelling musty when i come in the front door and my son complains that his sinuses are clogged when he stays at my house. I'm thinking maybe the water that was in the crawlspace in the front of the house between the 2 kids bedrooms is back. When i bought the house it was dried out with fans and the previous homeowner made sure guttering was out from the house but i'm thinking because the landscaping around my bushes in the front yard is flat that maybe when i run the garden hose or it rains that the water maybe standing there and seeping in. What is best way to determine if that is the problem or what do you suggest? The problem previously was only in the front but i haven't looked down there since April 06 and currently no plastic down on the dirt. thanks, Melinda
As he mentioned plastic-6 mil visqueen is most often needed in crawl, on soil, to help prevent moisture/vapor from rising...thats one thing.
Now 'IF' water is entering through crawl-wall(s) then thats another problem area and any water should be eliminated from getting in through/under crawl.
If you like, you could run a water-test outside,around the crawl. IF water begins to enter crawl then you`ll need to get this repaired by someone honest `n exp`d.
Now, if you do not get any water in crawl after running the water around outside of crawl then it`s possible water is getting in crawl from openings above grade/through gaps/spaces/joints/vents etc.
You could then soak/spray blocks/vents etc above grade and then see if any water is in crawl. If so then THOSE openings where ya just sprayed/soaked are the problem(s) allowing water in.
Problem(s) should have been defined prior to sale of house.
you can call me if you like, can talk now if ya have time, i`ll accept ph. charges i can probably explain it better on phone, up to you deleted number, let me know
Situation: House in Central Kansas built in 1985 w/ poured finished full basement. Never leaked before. House has drain Tiles inside and Sump as per code, but camera inspection revealed that tiles are full in some areas and partially full to dry in other areas. Tiles do flow water.
Found water in corner away from sump recently, it had wicked into carpet & caused some mold to appear. Removed Carpet, mold and 2'H x 5'W of sheetrock on both sides of corner. Have not removed 2x4 framing, but can find no cracks in visible areas. I have found a 50-cent-piece sized dark spot on concrete just at the top of the 2x4 sill plate that seems to be surrounded by 'efforvescence'? (Granular whitish salt or calcium appearance.) (The drain tile in this corner is dry.)
Area has been dried via Fan & Dehumidifier. I tried the hose test at surface level for 30 to 45 minutes with no moisture appearing inside. (Ground is still very wet due to unusually heavy rains.)
I have had 3 Basement/foundation repair companies on-site: 1 recommends waterguard, 1 recommends aquatrek, & 1 recommends either cutting floor & realigning drain tile or digging up entire front of house and putting on new tar as well as putting in an exterior tile.
Thus far each of the contractors has indicated that the problem is leakage at the cold joints between the slab and the wall that was probably caused by our recent record rains, but none of them want to cut out the corner studs or more drywall to absolutely pinpoint the source because they say they don't want to "cause further interior damage". (Even though I offerred to get my saws out to help them so that they could look at the wall while there.)
Each of the companies has Very good BBB ratings and their method/product seems to be accepted in the area, BUT I am paranoid/cynical/Tired of being taken.
Am I right to be concerned that the source of the water was not absolutely pinpointed by any of these companies? If so, then what can I do to find the leak? Also do you have any pals in the Wichita KS area that you would trust to fix your basement? If not, what questions can I ask over the phone to find a reliable/trustworthy and hopefully reasonable contractor/company?
remember, best any of us can do to try `n help is based on how supposed problems/leaks are expalined, the more info the better
ok, if you have run water test at/near full blast(not a trickle) at ground level on outside of where you get/see water inside then one has to deduce no problem with the bsmt wall.How one does a water test is important. plus you say you do Not see any crack(s),rod holes.
do you see any water marks/stains starting up high on wall other than this spot by plate?
are you SURE there is NO crack...sometimes hairline crack(s) are patched/filled and then painted over on inside,gotta look real close from top to bottom.
do you see a water mark/stain ALONG part of a seam in the poured wall?
and, it IS possible you DO have a partial blockake under the bsmt floor.
IMO, most people`s problems are on the outside. This may not be great exmaple BUT lets use 1 million homes/basements, 900,000 will have problems on outside but that still leaves 100,000 with potential blockages in lateral line, blockage in tile to sump,sump pump needs on the Inside. Thats STILL quite a few potential problems that don`t require exterior repair, `im saying many of those 100,000 won`t/don`t need any 'drain tile or baseboard system' but will need s sump pump(S) and/or find where blockage is, snake through sump tile-storm trap or, will be a back up in lateral line
But, in the overall scheme of things, 900,000 is MANY more than 100,000....got it?
Did any company FIRST recommed having plumber snake under floor through possible storm trap-cleanout? Did any say TRY snaking THROUGH drain tile that empties into sump pit? I would 'TRY' these First before spending any money on anything else BUT, the snaking MUST be done correctly!!! Have seen half hearted attempts by plumbers which obviously didn`t do crap.
You/others can live in a home for 25-75 years with never having any sort of leak/problem and then, just like that, ya get a leak. Could be a crack occurred, a rod hole finally gave-way,a blockage occurred under floor or wind/weather caused openings above-ground in bricks/mortar joints/around windows etc.
Are ya 'CERTAIN' there isn`t a leaky ROD hole(s) BEHIND 2 X 4`s????????????? This happens quite a bit! Look CLOSELY! Shhtt, i`d want to be sure of this before doing any snaking
Any floor drain a lil away from corner that was possibly covered up, cemented & carpeted over?
Say again, many-Not all of these companies who only/most always do Interior systems ALWAYS SAYS--problem is under floor/hydrostatic pressure and/or outside tiles are broke/clogged/high water table area etc and THIS IS what pizzes some of us off, THEY always come to this conclusion and its simply a bunch O shtt! truth is,90% or so...Outside, 10% or so inside and to hear these knotheads always tell folks they always need inside system is pure NONSENSE.
Make sure there is no crack,rod hole BEHIND 2 x 4`s....and see this link http://msdgc.org/downloads/wib/common_causes_wet_basement.pdf and NO, i do not agree w/everything said but lots of truth as they say.. 'rodding your drainage or lateral line'
See,scroll to 'Broken or Clogged Lateral Lines'...back up could cause water to easily come back into your home through IMPERFECTIONS in your basement FLOOR'! Imperfections include openings along cove/cold joint,any openings in floor but the problem CAN BE/could be, the BACK UP, and NOT what some tell folks...'high water table/hydrostatic pressure etc.
Oh, 'some'... not all, who use a camera LIE. Some will tell HO,show HO the tape of blockage under floor/tiles etc but its not a tape of their house! Again, i said 'some'...careful there.
The company that did the camera work in the drain tiles was a plumbing company that I called in case the lines were collapsed or needed s*****. I watched the camera & was with the plumber as the 'Full' sections of tile were located, but there was no blockage in any of the tile. I don't know what a Rod hole is and I don't know the exact procedure for the hose test. Also I haven't removed any sheetrock other than that in the corner. It sounds as if you are confirming my suspicions that the leak source needs to be found before trying to decide how to fix it which is something that none of the companies that I have clled out have made an effort to do. I didn't see a crack but that doesn't mean that there isn't one hidden behind the sheetrock further down the wall or behind the corner 2 x 4s. Is finding the leak something that I should expect the company to do or is it something that I should do? Also any recommendations of a company in the area Derby Kansas that will do a good job?
wish i was there to help you DEFINE exactly whats going on but, like Richard/others and i say, try running the hose at ground level, see if you get water in. Run it around the entire outside perimeter. Some HO`s have a 2-PART problem, openings/cracks etc below ground AND openings above,you can call if you don`t find problem/sources,gl
smart of you to be w/plumber, unless a friend or trustworthy plumber you`ve used before. I`m not crapping on plumbers,its just wise to be around/aware as there are some in this world who don`t give 2 craps about you. To repeat, 'some' WILL use a pre-recorded tape to bs Ho`s.
i`m not trying to tell you what to do with yer own house BUT, if it were mine then i`d certainly remove sheetrock in order to VIEW wall.
Yes, FIND the problem/source FIRST! Doesn`t make me happy to say again, some in THIS business WILL bs you or, they don`t give a crap and only want to sell you the one thing they do, an inside system or, they aren`t an expert in this business and don`t have a clue defining the problem(s).
Still could turn out to be some sort of problem under bsmt floor, blockage in lateral or in tile to sump pit etc. It could be a 2 PART problem, 2 sources, one could be under floor and crack/rod hole and/or, crack/rod hole AND an opening ABOVE ground. So yes, take your TIME and define problem(s) first, then you KNOW the money your about to spend will fix it, no guesswork, no 'i`m sorrys' later. No...'Oh Mr Smith, your problem is above ground"...thats the last thing you wanna hear after spending X amount, after being talked into something you didn`t need.
Sorry, don`t know anyone in Kansas, you may need a contractor and, you may not IF only problem/opening is ABOVE ground, ya know. First define problem then you`ll know who/what ya need and, they WON`T be able to bllct you. There will be someone in/around your town who is exp`d/honest, just may take a lil TIME to find em is all. You can call if you run into a problem, just let me know and, Richard is often around too.
