Easy maintenance floor coverings, no steps, open floor plans. Also larger tubs in case they need to place a seat in the tub. Also, even though the high ceilings are beautiful, they allow heat to leave the sitting area. Older people usually get cold easily.
Posts: 1 | Location: Louisville, KY | Registered: 26 July 2005
I am a physical therapist with many years experience in home care. First I'd recommend siting the home within a nice deep and railing-protected step or two from the driveway level. Level the entry door as close to the landing height as possible. Eliminate long hallways and design kitchen-bathroom-bedroom off a short central hallway. The bath directly accessible from the bedroom is even better. The wider doors are a good idea if they open out of the way of traffic patterns. Wider doors require more stepping backward to open towards you. I wonder if "french" doors might be practical? Maneuverability in a bathroom is foremost, even with an arthritis-friendly "comfort height" toilet. Distances between counters and walls should be minimum 32" to allow for turning with a walker or maneuvering a wheelchair (without legrests). And if an aide like the walker or w/c are necessary for mobility your client might need an extra person nearby for help too. This extra space also allows for removing a shower seat or bench from the tub when it's not needed. Although a 40+inch square walk-in shower with room for an optional fold down bench, a couple of strategically placed grab bars outside and in and NO glass doors would make that chore safe and efficient. Your idea of wider hallways would make cornering in and out of rooms with a w/c easier on your client and their walls. Kitchen accessibility is not as important as the bath since food prep is easier to delegate. However eliminating cabinets that require reaching above the head or below the knees would be a safer alternative. I saw an apartment design recently that had a front-loading washer and dryer pair in a bath-dressing room-bedroom hallway that were on a platform raising the openings to waist height. The bedroom clothes closet was directly opposite the washer-dryer closet. Nicely efficient to take things right from the dryer and hang up within a just a step or two across the "hall". I wish more builders would plan their standard designs include these changes. Older clients would enjoy a better quality of life and perhaps not have to leave their homes if universal design became truly universal.
As an older American who's been (peripherally) involved in res hmbuilding for over 30 years, from BOTH sides, and now as a disabled older American, I'd say the above suggestions are great! But the things I find most irritating are doorknobs, (levers are mucho dinero, but worth it!), dark rooms, (light colors on ceilings and walls, but remember colors of pets for floors)and floors that get slippery,cabinetry that makes me get on my knees, and those stupid 20foot vaulted ceilings that attract cobwebs and waste all the heat dollars I could use for other expenses.....for silly things like pills and food. At my age, I don't care if I can keep up with the Joneses. Architects, designers and builders should also get over it, when it comes to the very idea of a (gasp! Shudder!) GARAGE! By the time you pay a fortune for your vehicle, you need it under cover, out of nasty weather, and out of sight and safe. Just some ideas from a lifetime watching houses get showier and bigger and more wasteful in our country. (God Bless Sarah Susanka and people who think like her! Bigger is not always better, folks.....) BTW, you could also ask around at meetings for older folks and disabled folks. Bet you'd get your ears full,and plenty of ideas.....
I agree with the physical therapist- but I'd also include non-intrusive railings along both sides of the hallway, to maintain balance. Wheelchair accessible areas in the bathroom, kitchen, and bedroom are essential- spend an hour or two wheeling through your house on one and you'll come up with all kinds of ideas as to what will work. In the kitchen, keep cabinets banked in groups to themselves; allow sitting room under the sink, and include pull-out work areas that someone could sit under.
Originally posted by randall: I'm making halls and doors wider to appeal to older clients. Any other suggestions?
Lever handles on all doors and real handles on all cabinet doors and drawers rather than the new, fashionable knobs, or worse, no handle or knob on the door/drawer.
Posts: 1 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 26 July 2005
All stairways, long or short should have railings on both sides and the railings need to be graspable, not a 2X6. This works for elders and anyone that has arthritis and/or artificial knees or hips! Hi-rise toilets are mandatory and should be the only toilet sold and vacuum assisted. The French say that the reason Americans have so much trouble with hemorrhoids is that are toilets are too low! For safety for young and old, only lever door handles are mandatory. Try opening a door in an emergency with soapsuds on your hands. I just replaced all of mine and I still have a good grip. Plus it is handy when your hands are full.
Posts: 32 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 08 February 2005
Originally posted by randall: I'm making halls and doors wider to appeal to older clients. Any other suggestions?
Hi randall; its great that you are thinking about this subject. I am an occupational therapist and as such would be able to make many suggestions; feel free to contact me at marlapop1@aol.com ; a couple of obvious ones besides halls and doors would be to make the bathroom and end of hallways large enough to be able to turn your wheelchair in a circle( more or less), no thresholds or stairs in/out of various rooms, proper lighting with decreased glare but increased light or better placement of light, built in night lights on floor boards would be really cool( many elderly pts fall while getting up in middle of night for the bathroom); doorknobs, window cranks and faucet handles that are ergonomic; stove controls in front instead of back area,.....I could go on forever. You may want to consider hiring an occupational therapist as a consultant. I presonally have a strong interest in not only the general design for elderly but the specific design of new construction for someone with a specific disease or condition - including baby boomers with children of special needs ( a home that grows with the patient and their diagnosis; good luck Marla Popkin OTR/L Miami,fl
The updated version of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) contains minimum design requirements for removing architectural barriers in the built environment. These are excellent guidelines and work for most situations.
Having worked in homes with high concentrations of varous forms of disability, there are a few other features I would recommend. I would assume that the occupant has the desire to be totally independent. This applies to every room inside the house and features outside.
The kitchen poses the most obstacles and is usually the most expensive to retrofit. Considerations are: wall oven with side-swinging doors, countertop range, and shallow refrigerators. Elements on the countertop need knee spaces under them, with hazardous parts covered. Hot water pipes and sink drains need to be either insulated or covered with a panel. The ADA recommends a range of countertop heights that are suitable for accessibility.
In the bathroom, a roll-in shower is usually the most easily used form of bathing. At the vanities, again, the water pipes and the drain, as well as the bottom side of the bowl must either be shielded or insulated, with space for knees. There are maximum mounting heights for towel bars, mirrors, soap dispensers, etc. The ADA requires a minimum turning circle of clear area in the bathroom of 60" diameter. Part of the circle may project under a wall-mount lavatory or a wall-mount water closet. Wall-mount water closets allow for easier cleaning. The ADA also requires minimum and maximum spacing for toilets and lavatories, and their relationship to adjacent walls. Grab bars are required at both the water closet and the shower/tub.
Doors and frames with the most anticipated wheelchair use should be robust enough to resist impact from wheel axles and foot rests. Short of that, additional protection should be added to the doors and frames. The clear opening at the door must be no less than 32". This is measured from the face of the open door leaf to the opposing door stop. If a panic bar or other device projects from the door leaf at a height less than 32" above the floor, the measurement must be taken from the projection to the opposing door stop.
Floor materials are required to meet slip factors, and carpets need to be stiff enough for wheelchair tires to easily roll over.
Smoke/fire detectors need to have both visual and audible alarms.
Lever-type door hardware has already been recommended, but door closers, if provided, must fall within certain resistance ratings. Door thresholds can be no more than 1/2" high above the adjacent floor. The strike side of the door must be free of obstruction for a distance of 12" on the push side and 18" on the pull side, for a distance of 5' on either side of the door opening. The floor must be level for a distance of 5'on either side of the door.
These are just a few of the highlights of the ADA. The International Building Code contains similar requirements.
I would consider building a universally designed house in a manner that could be upgraded over time, as situations require. For example, it may not be necessary to install grab bars in the toilets at the start. But blocking needs to be installed in the wall so that grab bars can be added at a later date.
Both the building codes and the ADA contain sketches to illustrate the requirements, although they are somewhat cryptic.
Also, you should be able to find any number of illustrated manuals that deal with accessibility.
I too am extremely interested in universal design for my next and possibly last, home. My cuurent home does have many of the ideas incorporated such as zero thresholds, wood floors, no carpets, lever handles and the entire ground floor is an open plan but that is due to it being a former barn. However the bedrooms are on the second floor and the bathrooms are not handicap accessible. I am only 50 and not at all disabled but am planning for my future and that of my son who is mentally disabled and will live with me yet for some time. I recommend using a search such as Google to learn more about Universal design practices. My questions is,"does anyone know of existing communities implementing Universal design and ideally, also "green" practices in the northeast, mid-atlantic or southern states???
Posts: 3 | Location: NJ | Registered: 27 July 2005
hi there, i am a wheelchair user for the last 24 years AND i am a designer/consultant on homes. i am very willing to help anyone who has a need for accessiblity ideas. i have been told that i am very good. so if you need help, email me: cbckspec@hotmail.com.
my best advice: talk with your clients to find out what their needs/requirements might entail. ask about counter heights, which direction the doors should open. there is so much more to consider. email me and i will help
Posts: 2 | Location: pensacola | Registered: 25 May 2005
Along with the above suggestions, I recommend getting a free copy of the "Fair Housing Act Design Manual", published by the US Department of Housing and Urban Development. In this one-inch thick, well illustrated manual, are the minimum requirements for public housing - apartments, etc. Although single family residences are not covered by the requirements of the law, the concepts will apply to any living space. By contrast, the ADA generally covers commercial type buildings OTHER than residential, but it does touch on some living space requirements for dorms, motels, and similar spaces.
In my own home renovation, when we added a second floor, I made a closet on the lower floor align with a similar closet on the upper floor. This serves as great storage space now, and in the future, will accommodate an elevator if needed. At the second floor level, I framed the floor joist so that the flooring could be removed inside the closet without affecting the adjacent floor/wall structure.
One other item for a home just for us older folks that still get around is stair height. I bought my new old home that had some stairs both outside and inside, although one of my requirements to the realtor was no stairs. The reason was the stair height which was 5-1/2 to 6 inches. This was very handy for me with two artificial knees and mucho arthritis. Where this has been made a requirement in some communities, the builders hate it because a full height stairway takes up a lot more room.
Posts: 32 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 08 February 2005
Originally posted by sefku: I too am extremely interested in universal design for my next and possibly last, home. My cuurent home does have many of the ideas incorporated such as zero thresholds, wood floors, no carpets, lever handles and the entire ground floor is an open plan but that is due to it being a former barn. However the bedrooms are on the second floor and the bathrooms are not handicap accessible. I am only 50 and not at all disabled but am planning for my future and that of my son who is mentally disabled and will live with me yet for some time. I recommend using a search such as Google to learn more about Universal design practices. My questions is,"does anyone know of existing communities implementing Universal design and ideally, also "green" practices in the northeast, mid-atlantic or southern states???
You're in the heart of 'Universal Design' country. The University of North Carolina at Raleigh practically invented the concept and certainly promotes it effectively. They worked with USC to put together the first courses on the subject. The charter class was about four years ago and is still one of the least expensive ways of getting 'the right info'. it's called Accessible Home Modification. I earned an Executive Certificate, but you'll get a lot more from it than some initials behind your name. I had built and taught for years and can vouch for the practicality of the info.
I personally know 2 older men who could not get off of the toilet. The first waited for 6 hours in the middle of the night, until someone came in the morning to check on him. Thank goodness he had people in on a daily basis!
The second fell into the tub before doing his business. It was not a pretty sight in the morning.
I think that the toilets not only need to be higher, but also have walls with rail on BOTH SIDES. And a stationery phone (that they can't take elsewhere & lose) to call for help if they
are stuck.
A phone in the bathroom would have helped my mom when she got out of the shower in a hurry to rush to the phone. She slipped across the floor & smashed her ankle into the wall. It took days in the hospital and a difficult surgery to leave her still crippled, in the end.
That brings up one more point..........make sure the floors aren't slippery...through the house.
Easy to keep clean - with no unnecessary surfaces....especially in hard to reach places.
