Greetings all - I'm going to be installing some Andersen Series 400 tilt windows. The size I ordered 56 7/8 inches in height, but my rough opening is 56 3/4. It seems that I would need to create an additional spaceof 1/16" at the top and bottom for a super tight fit...What would be the best way to achieve this? Power plane the headed and sill, or use a reciprocating saw? And how much materila should I try and remove? All thoughts and comments welcome!

I would probably try an orbital sander first. Using 60 grit it would not take long to sand 1/16 of an inch of soft wood. Draw a line on the sill and header and be patient and sand evenly. This assumes the exterior finish ( brick, siding, etc.) does not need to be resized.

Sawzall works wonders. You should remove as least the amount for the proper rough as suggested by Anderson. Remember framing settles and shifts as the house ages. If the fit is to tight the nailing flange will not be able to take up any movement and flexing that will occur. The result will be binding and incorretly working windows.

Also, if you try to take out only 1/16", it leaves zero room for pan flashing. I'm currently adding 1/4" in addition to the manufacturers suggested rough opening size vertically to account for all the flashing I'm doing to keep the water out.

Jay -

Three cheers for the pan flashing. That is the way to install. Most people never heard of it and do not know how to use it.

The lack of using suggested details and following manufacturers instruction is the one of the main reasons over 60% of the windows are installed properly.

I had to spend hundreds of dollars and several days to learn that and become a certified window/door installer. Now some builders are subbing out window installation beacause they recognize their carpenters are not qualified or prefer to work and guarantees to others.

If everyone folowed the rules, I would not have the moisture penetration law suits to testify in.

Thanks concrete. Doesn't take much to panflash and adds very little to the project. I always tell customers that is one way to tell a good contractor from a bad one, is how they install the windows. Too many times I've driven past a jobsite where the window flange was nailed directly to the wall sheathing, nothing was wrapped at all.