Sorry been a while since I was on the web. To answer you Jay, yes. He bought all material and sized the headers. I was not consulted in any way as "how to " or "what do you think". Besides I am a Mechanical Engineer, Not Civil. I had not been exposed too much to any building construction prior to this.
Just a update. I found a good local Architect that is a PE. He came out and poked around. He completly agrees with you guys. Get rid of the old headers with either a I beam or 3 LVL's. Also found out the existing headers only have one "jack stud" on each end which is another code violation. But on a slightly positive note found it is double sill plated on top and has a 2x6 underneath to trim to the opening size. This makes room for a 14" LVL X 3 now. He also took a look at the contractor's "proposal" and say basically NO. Now getting estimates for proper repairs. To what degree is the county inspector held accountable? What is the "punishment" for the contractor? These are questions I am still looking for answers on and problaby will be answered by the law. Joe
Joe H Indiana
Posts: 13 | Location: NE Indiana | Registered: 16 March 2008
Government inspectors are almost always covered by an indemnity clause which protects them as individuals, and the governmental entity as a whole. You won't find any liability there. When they review plans, they don't have a lot of time to spend, and they certainly don't go checking every aspect of the structural design. That is basically the responsibility of the Owner, and he may delegate that responsibility to a design professional. I think if you raised the issue, the governmental agency would simply respond "No one barred you from retaining the services of a professional."
As far as punishment for the contractor is concerned, you might try small claims court, but the answer there might be the same as the government gave you. The responsibility ultimately always resides with the Owner.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Richard Hetzel,
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2493 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
The architect is right - This one of the few times architects and engineers agree.
You have to get the load off the old inadequate header and replace it with properly sized one. The old header has some deflection/creep and "locked-in" stresses that reaaly do little contribute as much as you think to any patch applied.
This is not just a strength problem, but also is a deflection problem that many people to do bother to check.
Take off the load, remove the header, replace and let the load down again. A newer home should be corrected and not "patched".
****
Posts: 153 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 28 July 2007
Since it has been established that it is the contractors fault. I would either talk to him or send him a certified letter saying that this is the fix and either come do it that way or you are going to hire someone else to do it and send him the bill. Better yet have a lawyer do it for you. Hopefully that'll scare him enough to do it right.
General Contractor/Home Builder
Posts: 288 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007
Maybe that price is code for "I don't really want to do it, but I'll do it at that price." The two zeros on the end might be a clue. If the bid were $15,524, it would be more believable. On the other hand, that may be what it really costs. Undoing someone else's mess is probably at the bottom of the list of what contractors really want to do.
Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
Posts: 2493 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005
Exactly. We've had to do this repair on a 16 ft garage door before. This was about 4 years ago and the bill was roughly $4500. Not saying that yours will cost the same but it should give you an idea of what other people are paying.
General Contractor/Home Builder
Posts: 288 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007
Estimate in from a decent contractor much less, however he want to build a wall inside of the existing. Contacted the floor truss MFG. they provided what mods are needed for the trusses to take the load 6-10" from end. This will require relocation of a cold are return and three electric lines. Also found out only 1 jack stud under each end of the existing headers. Estimate may end up after all that near $7500 - 8000. Contractor on Vac. til Monday. I may just take a gamble and try fixing it myself. Anyone want to come to gorgeous North East Indiana??? Bring your tools!!! Joe
Joe H Indiana
Posts: 13 | Location: NE Indiana | Registered: 16 March 2008