howdy. i'm building a treehouse and having problems figuring out the proper technique to get the correct mitre cut on the roof support braces. there's a 45 degree slope, but the mitre angle is hard for me to grasp. any shortcuts or 'plain as day' solution would be appreciated. db

The roof "support braces"...are you referring to additional bracing along with your roof rafters? If so are you installing them vertically (90o degrees)or at an angle? Where are you intending on attaching the ends of your support braces (webs/purlins)? Is it a gable roof or hip?
More details needed!

It's basically a square with a tree in the middle. I'm working on the roof supports. There are 4 2x4sgoing from each corner up to the tree (at a 45 degrees slope upward). These are screwed into the tree. From there I'm putting more 2x4s between these 4 corner boards for support and for the plywood roof base to be attached/screwed to. I'm having difficulty getting a nice mitre cut that are plum with these support boards. I'm sure this is basic stuff, but I'm not 'seeing' it and I'd like to make this nice and safe. ANY tricks would be appreciated! Thank you in advance, Dan

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Originally posted by heylamma:

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Originally posted by PCBuilder:
The roof "support braces"...are you referring to additional bracing along with your roof rafters? If so are you installing them vertically (90o degrees)or at an angle? Where are you intending on attaching the ends of your support braces (webs/purlins)? Is it a gable roof or hip?
More details needed!

The best reference guides in framing a roof are string, a bevel set, a framing square and a protractor. Set the string at your desired spacing and square to the top plate with the square, use the bevel set to adjust to the angle of the string and measure against the protractor. This is called a cheek cut.Then use the bevel set to find the angle of intersection between the horizontial and the roof pitch( I believe you said around 45 degree.) This is called a plumb cut.
I will not assume how the rafters are connected to the top plate, so I can't help with measuring the rafter length. To set the angles on a compound miter saw set the adjusting arm of the saw to you plumb cut and set the back pivot to the cheek cut angle. It always does best to transcribe the marks from the bevel set onto a rafter template before cutting. Mark the angle of the plumb cut to the long dimension of the rafter and the cheek cut to the narrow dimension.
Hope it helps, let me know if you need more explainig