I have a couple french doors(with both doors operational)and the side I use the most is not flush with the frame at the top. The doors are fiberglass and only 8-10 months old. (Its a new house we acted as the GC)

We just moved in a couple months ago and I don't know if this problem was always there from the time of installation or something that happened over time.

Any thoughts, suggestions, little tricks?? My biggest concern is energy savings since I can see light at the top of the door.

I appreciate the help!

Usually issues of that nature are the result of some structural movement in the house, such as foundation settlement, wood shrinkage, or excessive deflection of structural members such as joists or beams. I suppose it's also possible that the door frames were not properly shimmed when they were installed, and a frame has perhaps become bent, but this is unlikely.

Exactly how much daylight can you see above the door? Is the gap a constant width, or is it wider where the two doors meet, and narrower at the side? Or does it taper the other way, wider at the side than in the middle? Is the gap over just one of the pair of doors, or both?

If the gap is tapered and very small, like from one-eighth of an inch to zero, perhaps a hinge can be shimmed to align the door. This is done by removing the hinge from the door frame and cutting a piece of cardboard the shape of the hinge, and punching holes in the cardboard where the screws will go. Then you re-install the hinge with the cardboard behind it. Depending on the width of the gap, you may need more than one piece of cardboard, and depending on the direction of the taper (if the gap is indeed tapered) you will do this to either the top hinge or the bottom one.

But, first check for any small structural movement, using a carpenter's level. Check the floor at the door opening, check both door jambs, check the door head, check the walls adjacent to the door. The level may reveal the cause of the problem.

Thanks Richard. I would like to expand on my question and offer a better picture (if possible). I'm concerned about the top of the door not being flush with the frame or the other semi-stationary door. Meaning, I have to push on the top of the door on the upper corner (closest to the semi-stationary door) in order to eliminate the light coming through where the doors intersect and to make that "problem" door flush with the semi-stationary door.

Does that most likely indicate that the door isn't square and there might be some shifting? The wall, where that particular door is located, is part an expansive wall that spans ~18 ft wide to 22 feet tall and it's not a flat wall.

Would your tricks still work? Could it possibly be that particular door panel?

And at what point (level) should I be concerned if I do see structural movement? The foundation is Superior Walls.

Thanks again.

Even though fiberglass doors aren't "supposed" to warp, stranger things have happened. Fast and cheap way to check would be to measure the diagonal corners in both directions on the door - bottom right to top left and vise versa, those measurements should be exactly the same. Richard gave good advice on the level, use a 4 foot one if you have it available to you - and check everything.

Edit: I wouldn't be alarmed at any structural issues quite yet. The first year of your new house is the worst for movement. After that, usually the house has settled to it's final resting place - it's not uncommon to come back and adjust some doors during that transition.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: JayinMinnesota,

From your description it sounds like one side jamb is out of plumb. I assume this was a pre-hung unit. I assume also the the strike plate on the idle door edge is set correctly. If you can eliminate the gap by pushing against the door knob, then move the strike plate out a bit. to tighten the door against the stop and the astragal on the idle door. If it has a compression weatherstip on the door stop, you could possibly try to move the top hinge out closer to the stop to pull the live door out closer to the stop and the idle door. You'd also need to move the center hinge a bit too. You'll need to be careful not to create a binding problem against the stop. Basically what you are trying to accomplish is to get both doors on the same plane without pulling the casing and reworking the entire jamb. A level layed against the doors along the hing side should reveal which panel is out of plumb.