Hi,
Long story short, we bought an old block building that was once a meat packing plant, and turned it into a house.
We are still a little unsure of how we want to do the exterior.
We are considering both hardiplank and stucco. We want texture, maybe more than one, maybe both.
Currently, it is just painted block, and the block is powdery. We are currently putting in windows (which entails cutting holes in the block), and we have a couple in.
Problem is that to strip the walls I'm afraid would be amazingly difficult, since the block is 30 years old and brittle (and hard). We've done some on the inside, and sometimes it just chips when we use the concrete nails, instead of going in properly.
ANY IDEAS????? The Vision pic below is very very amateur, since I really have nothing good to edit with; I just used MS Paint. But, it gives you an idea of where we are heading.

PS: I'll take ANY advice on ANYTHING, especially design, that ANYONE wants to give! We also have to replace the tin on the roof, as you can tell in the pics. Could use advice on that TOO!
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Before:


Vision:

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SLC,

Hi SLC,
Looks like it will be a neat place! Which ever material you deside to go with (Hardiplank and/or stucco)you will unavoidably need to apply them to the block. I would recommend using Tapcon type concrete screws rather than nailing...you predrill the block/concrete with usually a supplied bit and then fasten your material to the block with the screws. The Hardi-siding will as you stated, require that you attach vertical pressure treated furring strips to the block every 16 inches along with 3/4 inch foamboard insulation in between each strip. Stucco will require galvanized metal lath attached to the block walls using a powder actuated pin gun or screws into the mortar joints. I would possibly try to limit all your fastening to the mortar joints and avoid the block. I would recommend gluing each wood strip with construction adhesive as well.

Hello SLC,
I applaud your ambition and design direction. As PCBuilder has stated, to use the Hardiplank you will have to use furring strips and install as described above by PCBuilder. For the stucco application you can use the metal lath method; you can pressure wash the block and apply bonding agent and parge a scratch coat of mortar directly to the block wall; or you can apply "new age" stucco which entails attaching extruded foam sheets to the block wall via Tapcon screws and/or construction adhesive and then applying the stucco layers to the foam board. I noticed that you intend to have arched windows, it will be a challenge cutting the block to a rounded shape, just take your time and be patient. You will probably get the best result by drawing the outline of the planned rough opening and use a hammer drill to drill multiple holes along the curved portions of the outline, then use a hammer to tap out the area you are removing and refine the edge with an angle grinder. Your roofing of course is totally up to you, however I think using Galva-lume metal roofing would be a nice accent to the stucco and/or Hardiplank, especially if you are using a difficult color pallet. The Galva-lume comes in 2 ft. widths and virtually any length. It comes in a variety of colors, it's easy to install, it has a good warranty and it's durable. Just a thought. Another thought with your roof lines would be faux slate roofing which is another durable product. Installation has a learning curve but it's pretty straight forward. Of course you can always go the composite shingle route, I would only urge you to consider the 50 yr. architectual style shingle to add visual interest to the roof. Hope this helps, good luck.

Thank you. These are all good suggestions. As far as the roof, we were hoping to go back with metal, since the roof on currently does not have the decking needed for shingles. We could apply the metal right back to the rafters, or at least that is my assumption.
I'm not sure how we will do the arch yet. I've thought about that. What I know is that we bought the windows from Lowe's at an unbelievable price because someone had ordered these custom coastal windows and didn't want them. So, we bought them, knowing we could put any size we wanted in, since we were cutting the holes! There are 5 5'x 7' windows, and one 4' x 6' window with the arch that would go above it that's 6'. But, we probably won't put the arch on top of the window.

Any ideas are welcomed.

Hi SLC,
You are correct in your assumption that you can apply metal roofing right back to the roof framing. There should be 2x4s or 1x4s running perpendicular to the rafters, some call it strapping others call them purlins, it's all in where your from I guess. Anyway this boards will be spaced 16" to 24" on center starting from the eaves and going up to the ridge line. Ensure that they are in good condition and securely fastened to the rafters. 30# roofing felt can also be applied to these prior to installing the roof for an added layer of protection. However, if you are willing to go perhaps a cheaper route and there's a contractor in the area who specializes in it, you could always have the current roof upgraded. This usually entails: pressure washing, sandblasting, and spraying of paint-resin type coating that can only be compared to an automotive finish. I'm sure this would be quicker and cheaper than replacing the roof and would be a durable alternative. Again, there aren't a lot of roof contractors using this application currently but they are out there.

That's interesting. Unfortunately, with the roof being so old, I think we need to replace it anyway. A lot of it has bent edges. I haven't looked closely to see if there are 'purlins' or not already, but I don't remember seeing them. Either way, we will be sure they are there and in good shape. The felt I know has to be installed. There's none currently.

Anyone know of a good place to get metal roofing cheap???? Maybe by buying in bulk? The house is 4500 sq ft!