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Posted
I recently bought a 1938 Arts & Crafts style house in Hawaii which I am restoring. I would like to replace the ugly metal window screens with wood frame screens, but have never built these before. I have looked around and cannot find an example to look at, or a DIY book with pictures/details I can look at. Can anyone recommend a source or give me basic instructions? Also, once made, how are the screens attached to the house? Aloha and Mahalo!
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 31 May 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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The screens are typically made using 5/4 x 3 frames, with mitered corners. The best way to fasten the corners would be mortise and tenon, which may be beyond the skills of an average homeowner. The next best way to fasten the corners is by using corrugated nails. Larger screens have a horizontal member across the middle of the frame also.

The screening is stapled to the face of the frame, and the edge of the screening is covered with half-round moulding.

The screens are attached to the house at the top, with two metal fittings which have holes in them. The holes fit over other fittings which are anchored to the house, and the screen hangs from these fittings. It is hooked at the bottom inside with typical hook and eye fasteners, one for a small screen, two for a wider screen.

Hope this helps! Smiler


Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
 
Posts: 2509 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thank you so much for your very detailed instructions! I understand almost everything, but just had 2 questions: (1) what is 5/4 x 3 - is that 1 1/4" x 3" stock molding, or something else? and (2) what do the hinges for the top of the screen look like or what are they called so perhaps I can find some? I tried my local DIY center, and they tried to sell me piano hinges which I know are wrong. Thanks so much!
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 31 May 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yes, 5/4 x 3 is 1 1/4 x 3 wood.

The hinges at the top are stamped from sheet metal, and have a hook-like protrusion over which the screens are hung, and they have flanges which if memory serves me correctly have two screw holes, allowing them to be screwed into the window trim.

The part that attaches to the screen is also stamped from heavy sheet metal, has two screw holes, and the part that extends above the screen to engage the hooks has a rectangular hole punched out of it.

Oh, and don't forget the numbering tacks so you will know which screen goes where!

http://houseofantiquehardware.com/s.nl/sc.12/category.2...KQq4UCFTJJGgod6Db_ug


Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
 
Posts: 2509 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have wood windows in my home also. Some of them do not stay open without support.
Can the design you outlined be used to build a box to hold the window open? Instead of making a full size screen, this box screen would hold the window open and fit under the sash.
Thanks,
 
Posts: 1 | Registered: 29 June 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Wood windows that don't stay open have usually lost their window weights. These weights are hidden in the wall, and serve to counterbalace the window sash, so that it will remain where you want it. They are attached to the sahs with either ropes or chains. Ropes rot and cahins rust, and the weights fall to the bottom and stop working.

The good news is the problem is easy to fix, and can be done either of two ways. The firs is to restore the weight mechanism by replacing the rope or chain, There is usually an access port in the upper side of the window frame, held in place by a screw. Remove it and see what happened to your weighs.

The second method is to install metal spring-loaded tracks in the existing window frames. which will hold your windows up by friction.

Properly done, either way is satisfactory, and either way is realtively inexpensive.


Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
 
Posts: 2509 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Picture of DanielmThomas
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how about using a biscuit joiner instead of mortise and tenon? I'm thinking about buying one. Any suggestions on the type/brand of biscuit joiner? I found one called o'mally? Know anything about it?
 
Posts: 2 | Registered: 01 July 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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