I would like to change the flooring in my bathroom. Currently it has lenolium peel and stick tile.
There's a hump in front of the door, approximately 1/4" high and 14" wide. It's a gradual hump, but noticable. This bump has caused the lenolium to crack and break. My question is, when I replace the flooring, what can I use over this hump, or what can I do to level it out? I'm not sure what caused it. Possibly warped from water damage? It's been there since I moved in. The bathroom is tiny, 5x5, so we don't want to take on a huge project for a small hump.
What kind of flooring would be best here? Is cork flexible enough that it won't break? I have wood floors all over the house. I've heard ceramic tile won't work on wood floors because of the "bounce" associated with wood floors. Is this true? Sorry I have a lot of questions.

The hump may be caused by the subfloor. If it's plywood or oriented strand board, it may have delaminated or swelled, probably from moisture. It's no big deal, once you take up your flooring, to cut out and repair the subfloor. How much of a project can you get into ina 5x5 bathroom?

Whether ceramic tile would work depends on the floor strycture, and in order to comment, we would need to know the size and spacing of the floor joists, their span, and the species and grade of wood. Wood floors do not necessarily exhibit "bounce". It all depends on the above-listed factors. If you FEEL bounce in the floor now, I would advise against ceramic tile, but if you don't, you're probably OK.

Vinyl peel and stick tile is very soft and can bend over uneven surfaces. If it cracked, then so will any other material placed over it.

So...

You need to figure out why the bump is there. Perhaps settlement of the home? If the bump is hard and does not flex when stepped on its not rot caused by water most likely settlement of some type.
If its soft then water has entered this area and caused some damage that must be corrected before you place any other type of floor down.

Small project. Use leveling compound on floor after removing all tiles. Then once dry purchase a sheet vinyl floor or new stick down tiles of your choosing. Simple eight hour project.

Or follow the rest of the thread below and plan on two weekends of grunt work but worth it work to do it properly.

Do not use cork on the floor. Its a wet location. Cork had the potential to soak in moisture which can cause all kinds of issues for you. Of course this depends on the quality of cork purchased.

You may find its not that difficult to level the floor out with floor leveling compound often found in the tile section of the bigger home centers. There are pourable mixtures that self level and those which you trowel youself.

A five foot square floor can be easily tiled with proper prep work. You will need however to remove the toilet and if you have a small vanity its best to remove this as well to make putting the tiles down much more easy.

Once you removed the glue down tile, you may find more stuff under it. Scrape all material off until you reach wood. Or until you reach a material that is so stuck on that it simpy will not come off.

You need to figure out where the floor joists are located. If you have everything off the floor, you will see the nails, or you need to use a stud finder or simply use a nail and hammer to find the studs. Do this along the walls. and mark with a pencil the center of each stud location on the wall. Also remove any wood floor trim as this will need to be replaced later.

Once done then level floor. Then place a cement backer board over the entire floor surface. Ideally using thin set cement that you mix from a bag with a knotch trowel is best. Once down be sure to screw this board down where there are floor beams. You can use a string to connect the marks on each wall to give you the center of each board as it runs under the new cement boards. Every 16 inches put a screw in.

Cut around the toilet flange. You can purchase special rings to raise this back up the the top of the new floor once done.

Once that is done. You simply place new tile on the floor. Using Thin set cement again. Not the pre-mixed stuff. Grout using additive to help water proof.

A marble saddle at the door will complete the project and provide a edge for the tile.

This project is a lot of work, but once done it looks and lasts a long time.

Thanks. That was a bunch of information to process. I went back and looked again at the slightly elevated spot. I think I over estimated the height. I haven't measured but I'm guessing it's more like 1/8" than 1/4. Would we be able to plane or sand that down to level it with the same effect?
I'm not good at interior design so I can't invision what the resillient wood flooring would look like in there. In a space that small would that be over kill? Would those even work in a bathroom?

Sure you can sand it, but again need to determine if its decay from swelling of the wood, or simply construction hump. You may find once the tile is removed that its simply a seam between the plywood on the floor.

The engineered wood floors will tend to darken the room. If its a powder room, this type of floor will be ok, but if its a bath, I would not use this in there. The flooring will swell between the joints due to the elevated moisture levels often found in a bathroom. Not a good choice.

Please stuck more with Home care advise. Using a leveling compound to fix a hump is a lazy mans way of covering up a problum that may come back to haunt you later on.
Using it would still leave you with a high spot on both sides of the hump. Laying tile on top of that will just crack.
Any form of tile needs a flat nonmoving surface to lay on.
Your choises in a bathroom should be one piece sheet linolium or tile. No form of real wood, laminite flooring or peel and stick trash should be used.

quote:

bump in parquet floor

Thanks for the reply. Glad to hear that it could be just a clearance or water issue, and not some other major subfloor problem, which is more than we can afford to repair. It looks like the original flooring, and the building is over 50 yars old.

The parquet has about 5 or 6 slats per tile (it's been a while since I saw it in person); some of the slats are separated and have about 1/16" gaps. I'm not familiar enough with flooring to know if this is "real", but the rest of the floor is not in the best condition, so we might just replace it all anyway.

Thanks again.
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