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Posted
Long story but I had an addition done then after many grey hairs, found out the contractor had never permitted the work despite charging me for it. ( Wondered why he always said the inspectors came when I wasn't homw) Anyway- the addition roof extends into a new covered patio. I had noticed that where the roof from the interior house to the exterior patio was left open, then the interior room ceiling was drywalled, and the patio roof was covered. But the area between the roof trusses never had a wall? or barrier placed to block the patio ceiling and interior ceiling from sharing the same "air".
To me- the ceiling would then also carry all the cold exterior air from the patio section into the new addition section causing significant heat loss... right? The ciontractor said that wasn't an issue and also did not insultate the ceiling area in the new addition.. So am I stupider than I already have been and should I get someone to open up the cleiling, close off the open track and insultate the interior ceiling? Or will this really not carry cold air from outside into the house. HELP???
 
Posts: 25 | Registered: 13 February 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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From what you describe, it sounds like you are right, with one reservation. If you close off the addition from the space under the patio roof, and insulate the addition ceiling as it should be, then how will that attic space above the insulated ceiling be ventilated?

I hesitate to ask, but are there soffit vents and a ridge vent in the roof of the addition? If not, is the addition roof higher than the patio roof, so that a louver can be installed in the end wall? Or are the two all one roof? In that case, you will at least need a louver in the end of the patio roof plus one in the wall between the two roof areas, and you will probably need another source of ventilation in the addition roof as well.


Architect (NY) and Home Designer (PA)
 
Posts: 2477 | Location: Tobyhanna, PA | Registered: 24 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I hate to rub salt in the wound but this is why you should always hire a LICENSED contractor. Contractors licensed through the state have a lot of rules that they have to follow, by law. Including not working without a permit. Unlicensed contractors do not have any rules, nor have anyone checking up on their work. They do whatever they want and there are no repercussions for their crappy work. They don't even have anyone checking to see if they carry builders liablity!! I have to show proof of builders risk, general liability and workers comp every year to renew my license. Anytime anyone hires a contractor to do any work this this, you should always ask to see their license.


General Contractor/Home Builder
 
Posts: 288 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks Richard and Jay.
Richard: Thankfully, all along the underside are vent openings and the roof also has vents, so I think your suggestion of at least adding a louver on the end is right.THANKS
Jay: Believe it or not, this guy WAS licensed, listed with the BBB and had references. He also was not the lowest bidder. The problem appears to be he wasn't a good business man, and he apparently got into trouble after he had taken my downpayment and began construction. My 6 week project shifted into over a year and in the meantime he shut down his business and went to work for someone else... forgetting to tell me this.
The problem is there is NO protection for homeowners- even if they follow all the recommended steps and check everything out, there's no guarentee. Yes, he still has his bond which I'm having to go after and yes, the state is trying to get him for the permits but he's now declared chapter 13 so I have to pay the fines, etc and wait for the courts.... I really wasn't a dumb consumer or a cheapskate Jay!
 
Posts: 25 | Registered: 13 February 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Sorry Idozy1, I didn't mean to imply that, looks like you did everything right but still got a raw deal It's contractors like that which give the rest of us a bad name. I sure hope you get your money back from him, and I hope the state catches up with him as well. Again sorry for your bad luck


General Contractor/Home Builder
 
Posts: 288 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 15 January 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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One thing I still see missing is that: Yes you should insulate the ceiling over the heated/cooled living space. If at all possible, the insulation should include a vapor barrier. If the roof has soffit vents and a ridge vent then the gable end vent may not be needed. There likely won't be much advantage to placing a wall or barrier between the living area and the patio if the ceiling is properly insulated.
 
Posts: 216 | Location: Annville, PA | Registered: 03 July 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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So, if I understand you, insulating the interior ceiling would provide enough barrier to prevent the cooler air entering from the patio ceiling from causing heat loss or a colder room inside?
Lisa
 
Posts: 25 | Registered: 13 February 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If the conditioned space is properly insulated, that is correct.
 
Posts: 216 | Location: Annville, PA | Registered: 03 July 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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