Can someone please describe the process of boosting water pressure on a municipal system?
I was hoping that re-piping with a larger meter and larger PEX lines would do more to "correct" low pressure (40 to 50 PSI). Don't get me wrong - its way better than the pinhole of water I was getting from 60 YR old galvy! I just was hoping for a little more. IF I decide to try and do something is it something I can easily install myself? Does it work during a power outage? Does it require a tank or is a pump somehow able to "grab" enough volume from my 1" line while simultaniously boosting the pressure? The water district says only so much water due to 6" main and being on far edge of system. (I almost was required to put in 13D fire sprinkler system for a remodel but I think I have weaseled out of that crap for now)
Anyway - thanks for any advice.

is it pressure or volume you need.
Your volume of water is low because of plugged steel pipes. Your pressure is not low 40-50 psi is ok. Much higher then that causes issues with fixtures.
Pex repiping will work fine. Just check with the local plumbing inspector to see if its allowed in yoru town. It should be.

Boosting water pressure on old steel pipes is a recipe for disaster. IT will cause more leaks then you want to fix in a day to occure.

If the pipe from the street is steel as well, be sure to have the water company or plumber (depending on where the meter is) change it from the street to the house. Your job from the meter point in.

I had water district put in a new larger meter. (3/4" x 1") and I have run 1" PEX service line between meter & house. It splits into (2) 3/4" PEX lines and one goes to HW tank. Other goes for cold.

I am using all 3/4" HOT & COLD under house in crawl space and then Wirsbo's remote manifolds @ each "fixture group" where I run SHORT 1/2" Pex Lines for each individual fixture.

Like I said - it's way better than what I had before. I just thought the garden hose would "perform" a little better than it does since the pipes are brand new and supposedly have such better flow than systems with bunches of 90' joints.

Doesn't matter - It will easily keep up with all the
"low flow requirement" faucets, toilets that I am required to install so that I don't use more than my fair share of "new" water.Thanks.

I've never heard of installing a supplemental pump and pressure tank on a municipal system before but if the city says it ok and you have new piping capable of handling the pressure, then I guess you have nothing to lose by installing it. By the way, if you do install the pump, then make sure you install the pressure tank as well. Keeps the pump from running every time you turn on the water.

Agree with Jay, a booster pump like used in a well system will be fine with a holding tank.

How do you know what the water pressure is? If you put a presure guage on the outside faucet to read it, Did you check the pressure when the water was running on fixtures in the house. Perhaps the pressure adjusting valve by the water meter is bad. That happens quite often. More then you would think.

The reason I know is that I am probably the only person in Seattle metro area whom actualy wasted $400 for a "fire flow test" 985 GPM / 45 PSI. (NOT that I'm bitter about it) I don't have a pressure regulator (surprised they didn't make me install one anyway)
OK - I'm very bitter, I can all but garantee that "developers/builders" are not being required to waste $400 to test a fire hydrant 85' from their house and also being threatened with having to install a $15K to $20K 13D fire sprinkler system just because they want to remodel. Just ONE of the miriad of ludicrous building dept. crap I have had to deal with.

Hello,
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Hey,
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Thanks.